Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 291
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All parts are ready for pickup, most of you who are picking up would have been contacted, if not PM me.

Some parts have been damaged during shipping and I am currently trying to get a replacement sent. Damaged parts include:

- R34 Eyelids

- EG Spoon Lip

- ONE pair S2000 Side skirts extension

- S15 interior replacement

- GTT Cooling Panel

- R32 weathershields

Those who have ordered the bits that have been listed damaged above, will be contacted shortly later on. Those who require shipping, have been or will be PMed the total outstanding amount and shipping cost.

picked up my items yesterday. not too bad. took some photos for you guys.... hopefully fitment is pretty good.

I would have thought that the headlight intake would have had tabs on both sides but there isn't. We'll see how it goes when I try and fit it on and see how it goes on the track.

20130121_153014.jpg

20130121_153035.jpg

20130121_153046.jpg

not much to say about the coilpack cover. looks ok. hopefully the holes line up ok.

20130121_153153.jpg

I attempted to fit my r32 dmax style roof spoiler tonight with no luck :( It doesn't sit flush so I kept pushing down with sikaflex with a helper waiting but its so curvy that it wont stay down in all places at the same time, I had my tie downs ready at the wheels to hold it firm against the windshield but it was to fiddly for it. Is anyone in the Sydney region that is willing to help me out? Or any tips? Is it safe to use a heat gun perhaps on the spoiler without ruining anything? Lost here....

I think my n1 boot lip will fit okay, haven't attempted it yet but I'm hoping it wont be as bad..

Also when will the damaged in transit parts be estimated to be made up and sent back here?

I attempted to fit my r32 dmax style roof spoiler tonight with no luck :( It doesn't sit flush so I kept pushing down with sikaflex with a helper waiting but its so curvy that it wont stay down in all places at the same time, I had my tie downs ready at the wheels to hold it firm against the windshield but it was to fiddly for it. Is anyone in the Sydney region that is willing to help me out? Or any tips? Is it safe to use a heat gun perhaps on the spoiler without ruining anything? Lost here....

I think my n1 boot lip will fit okay, haven't attempted it yet but I'm hoping it wont be as bad..

Also when will the damaged in transit parts be estimated to be made up and sent back here?

Still waiting to hear from supplier.

As for the roof wing, check out this thread on JDMST:

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?45280-dmax-s15-roof-wing-help

Still waiting to hear from supplier.

As for the roof wing, check out this thread on JDMST:

http://forum.jdmstyl...-roof-wing-help

Thanks I will have a crack at it again sometime this week and when its all done will post up some photos. Might get some different stronger sikaflex too and try that out. Was using 227.

Will be doing your order soon plats, packing it properly and securely is the main problem right now. Do-able, though I'm making about 15 custom boxes from flat cardboards that won't crush, which is a pain. Got a few of the 33 grills out.

Recieved my R33 CF GTR style front grill yesterday. Item was well packed lots of bubble wrap to keep it safe.

Item itself I was happy with very light and the carbon was decent.

Fitment on the other hand was the downside, the grill will not fit without removing the rear tabs sticking out and doing a little DIY to make it sit on the car how you want it too. Anyone who is waiting on theres will know what I mean when they try and fit it on the car.

The grill itself lines up fine and once in place looks great fitment is good after DIY is finished.

Overall happy with the item and the result.

Recieved my R33 CF GTR style front grill yesterday. Item was well packed lots of bubble wrap to keep it safe.

Item itself I was happy with very light and the carbon was decent.

Fitment on the other hand was the downside, the grill will not fit without removing the rear tabs sticking out and doing a little DIY to make it sit on the car how you want it too. Anyone who is waiting on theres will know what I mean when they try and fit it on the car.

The grill itself lines up fine and once in place looks great fitment is good after DIY is finished.

Overall happy with the item and the result.

you just cut them off?

you just cut them off?

Yup i removed all 4 tabs. The top ones can probably be left on but the bottom ones have to go. As each grills tabs will probably slightly different angle/width i suggest you assess which ones need removing.

I found it easiest remove all 4 as i can then place the grill how i want it and not have the tabs restricting me.

The back tabs can be cut off with a dremel / wire cutters / flower cutter basically anything with a sharp blade and handles has the tabs are fiberglass and wont be hard to cut through.

Edited by DarkRyda

forgive me for being dumb here, but if you removed all the tabs how did you fit it man?????!

Imagination and creativity =).

I drilled 4 holes at the back, two at the top of the grill where the tabs used to be and another two at the bottom next to the mesh screws. Then you zip-tie the grill to the headlight. Placement of the holes and the Zip-ties are most important or it wont fit properly.

You could also go to bunnings and get 2 U-Shaped brackets bot 1 on each side and attach that to the headlights. With doing this the U brackets must be the correct size or the grill will stick out to much. The ziptie option is probably the easiest and cheapest.

Wow dude you car is porn. What rims are you running?

Thank you. PM sent as this question is off-topic

cool. mines a white car so itll stand out like a bitch if it dont fit

The fitment is good pretty much perfect if you install it correctly.

Btw don't bother trying to zip tie it from the mesh it wrecks the mesh and doesn't align properly, so save yourself the trouble as I tried it and it didn't work at all.

Just a note the mesh comes silver I painted mine matte black with a satin clear. Maybe since your car is white silver mesh would look better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha nice, my kids are the same two older boys say cars are boring while younger girls like them. My 1.5yo daughter watches D1GP on YouTube with me, holding a toy plate for steering wheel and making brmm brmm noises
    • Took the car out to see if it still starts, sure does. Daughter wanted to for a spin too, she loves it when it doses, also cries when we come home and try to take her out of the baby seat 🥲  I actually put the seat in for her brother, but he absolutely hates the shitbox. Anyhow, so after looking at real boats, and transoms, bait tanks etc. and scupper valves attached to them, I came up with ideas to improve the catch can. The primary goal was to stop the interior smelling like vented catch can shit when the windows are down OR when the HVAC is not recirculated. My catch can has a sump drain/feed at the bottom, 2x cam cover inlets, 1x outlet back to the intake pipe and 1x vent at the top. The initial theory was at idle, and off boost there would be just enough suction from the intake pipe (pre turbo) to pull back any smelly shit from the catch can before it could escape out of the vent (which does have 1x layer of foam and a fine mesh screen on top). It kind of works, however on hot days, the motor is breathing more than the suction provided from the intake pipe (pre turbo) and there's a bit of vapours escaping (not a bit amount, but enough to piss me off). I could have just sealed off the vent, however it would mean each time I take it to the track or decide to drive it with a bit of enthusiasm, I would need to remove the seal. To address this, using scupper valve idea, I used a 3mm sheet of rubber and cut essentially a valve that requires a bit of pressure to crack open and vent. Took the shit box for a drive today, came back and parked the car. No heavy stench, great success ☺️ I still would swap for a F80 LCI or W204 2012+ C63 AMG, if anyone is keen 😅
    • I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning. If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there. The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue. This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car.   Some links I came across when I looked for solutions: Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring. https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031 https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx   You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34 There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.
×
×
  • Create New...