Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 291
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

All parts are ready for pickup, most of you who are picking up would have been contacted, if not PM me.

Some parts have been damaged during shipping and I am currently trying to get a replacement sent. Damaged parts include:

- R34 Eyelids

- EG Spoon Lip

- ONE pair S2000 Side skirts extension

- S15 interior replacement

- GTT Cooling Panel

- R32 weathershields

Those who have ordered the bits that have been listed damaged above, will be contacted shortly later on. Those who require shipping, have been or will be PMed the total outstanding amount and shipping cost.

picked up my items yesterday. not too bad. took some photos for you guys.... hopefully fitment is pretty good.

I would have thought that the headlight intake would have had tabs on both sides but there isn't. We'll see how it goes when I try and fit it on and see how it goes on the track.

20130121_153014.jpg

20130121_153035.jpg

20130121_153046.jpg

not much to say about the coilpack cover. looks ok. hopefully the holes line up ok.

20130121_153153.jpg

I attempted to fit my r32 dmax style roof spoiler tonight with no luck :( It doesn't sit flush so I kept pushing down with sikaflex with a helper waiting but its so curvy that it wont stay down in all places at the same time, I had my tie downs ready at the wheels to hold it firm against the windshield but it was to fiddly for it. Is anyone in the Sydney region that is willing to help me out? Or any tips? Is it safe to use a heat gun perhaps on the spoiler without ruining anything? Lost here....

I think my n1 boot lip will fit okay, haven't attempted it yet but I'm hoping it wont be as bad..

Also when will the damaged in transit parts be estimated to be made up and sent back here?

I attempted to fit my r32 dmax style roof spoiler tonight with no luck :( It doesn't sit flush so I kept pushing down with sikaflex with a helper waiting but its so curvy that it wont stay down in all places at the same time, I had my tie downs ready at the wheels to hold it firm against the windshield but it was to fiddly for it. Is anyone in the Sydney region that is willing to help me out? Or any tips? Is it safe to use a heat gun perhaps on the spoiler without ruining anything? Lost here....

I think my n1 boot lip will fit okay, haven't attempted it yet but I'm hoping it wont be as bad..

Also when will the damaged in transit parts be estimated to be made up and sent back here?

Still waiting to hear from supplier.

As for the roof wing, check out this thread on JDMST:

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/showthread.php?45280-dmax-s15-roof-wing-help

Still waiting to hear from supplier.

As for the roof wing, check out this thread on JDMST:

http://forum.jdmstyl...-roof-wing-help

Thanks I will have a crack at it again sometime this week and when its all done will post up some photos. Might get some different stronger sikaflex too and try that out. Was using 227.

Will be doing your order soon plats, packing it properly and securely is the main problem right now. Do-able, though I'm making about 15 custom boxes from flat cardboards that won't crush, which is a pain. Got a few of the 33 grills out.

Recieved my R33 CF GTR style front grill yesterday. Item was well packed lots of bubble wrap to keep it safe.

Item itself I was happy with very light and the carbon was decent.

Fitment on the other hand was the downside, the grill will not fit without removing the rear tabs sticking out and doing a little DIY to make it sit on the car how you want it too. Anyone who is waiting on theres will know what I mean when they try and fit it on the car.

The grill itself lines up fine and once in place looks great fitment is good after DIY is finished.

Overall happy with the item and the result.

Recieved my R33 CF GTR style front grill yesterday. Item was well packed lots of bubble wrap to keep it safe.

Item itself I was happy with very light and the carbon was decent.

Fitment on the other hand was the downside, the grill will not fit without removing the rear tabs sticking out and doing a little DIY to make it sit on the car how you want it too. Anyone who is waiting on theres will know what I mean when they try and fit it on the car.

The grill itself lines up fine and once in place looks great fitment is good after DIY is finished.

Overall happy with the item and the result.

you just cut them off?

you just cut them off?

Yup i removed all 4 tabs. The top ones can probably be left on but the bottom ones have to go. As each grills tabs will probably slightly different angle/width i suggest you assess which ones need removing.

I found it easiest remove all 4 as i can then place the grill how i want it and not have the tabs restricting me.

The back tabs can be cut off with a dremel / wire cutters / flower cutter basically anything with a sharp blade and handles has the tabs are fiberglass and wont be hard to cut through.

Edited by DarkRyda

forgive me for being dumb here, but if you removed all the tabs how did you fit it man?????!

Imagination and creativity =).

I drilled 4 holes at the back, two at the top of the grill where the tabs used to be and another two at the bottom next to the mesh screws. Then you zip-tie the grill to the headlight. Placement of the holes and the Zip-ties are most important or it wont fit properly.

You could also go to bunnings and get 2 U-Shaped brackets bot 1 on each side and attach that to the headlights. With doing this the U brackets must be the correct size or the grill will stick out to much. The ziptie option is probably the easiest and cheapest.

Wow dude you car is porn. What rims are you running?

Thank you. PM sent as this question is off-topic

cool. mines a white car so itll stand out like a bitch if it dont fit

The fitment is good pretty much perfect if you install it correctly.

Btw don't bother trying to zip tie it from the mesh it wrecks the mesh and doesn't align properly, so save yourself the trouble as I tried it and it didn't work at all.

Just a note the mesh comes silver I painted mine matte black with a satin clear. Maybe since your car is white silver mesh would look better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...