Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...

Have you tried turning the shaft 180 degrees yet to compare if vib's better or worse

Tried everything really, even phasing 90 degrees, im running stock shaft till the manager of spicer comes out and looks at it

funny you say spicer. I rebuilt my stock 2 peice with spicer uni's and the first pop of the clutch it shattered 2 of them. So I went a big single shaft which give the car a slight vibration about 110-120kph. I have come to the conclusion that it must be something to do with the harmonic's of the shaft at that rpm.

Don't take any of this the wrong way.

Nissan put a 2 pce drive shaft in for a reason.

I also admit, standard seems heavy at that.

But why make a super car and handy-cap it with this sort of construction?.

Id like to know all about the spicer and their uni's, more info please.

I'd suggest rear sub frame, diff , and gearbox miss-align enough to cause or at least contribute to the vib problem.

Or I'm simply wrong.

Recon someone who builds race cars professionally should knows what the "usual causes" of the vib given what your trying to do.

you may simply have to pay for a fix.

Good luck I'm keeping a close eye on this may have to do mine sooner or later.

Cheers

hhahaha yeah you should have seen the guy who built the shafts face when I walked in on Monday after picking it up on the friday. We then freighted the shafts from Perth to Brissy I think it was as Spicer wanted to see it before they would warrant any of it. They claimed that I must have had the wheels locked up or something. Then claimed it was impossible to smash both the front uni and the rear at the same time. But yeah they refused to warranty it so I gave them the finger and the guy that made the shaft met me half way on making a single. Drive shaft balancing service's in Malaga. They are a good bunch of guys too.

The funny part was the yoke's didn't break even after machining them to suit the spicer uni's but the centre's crumbled. PS it was 3500rpm launch in a 350hp R34 gtt. on crappy 235's

  • 4 weeks later...

So the problems almost gone now, turns out the spigot on diff was .3mm undersize, and bolt holes being super neat, when loosened off I wiggle plates and no play... The manager/engineer came and inspected the setup, and detected this, took it back, made new spigot perfect size, re-balance again and sent back and I fitted it, and now it runs great to 110 km/h but 110-120 it has the same vibration however nowhere near as severe as before, its just annoying now. Everything setup and balanced perfect we are at a loss as to what the issue now is. The only thing suggested was the unis, as they are a solid centre type, have fibre thrust washers on ends to stop play, and inturn offer resistance, the possibility is they are just tight enough to begin vibrations at that speed. IF this is the case, it'll pan out in the next few hundred kms.. I hope so. Input?

  • 2 months later...

Definately shaft. Stock has zero vibes. Havent done anything for a couple of months but its coming back this week hopefully with results. We have gone to a slightly lighter tube, kept the 1350 uni at box, and middle and diff are 1310's i think. Will post results. I hope lol.

  • 2 weeks later...

Finally sorted! Running slightly lighter 3 inch tube and 21r uni's, we have a good result so far. So many combos and different things and this is where we got to. Still rated well over 600hp and not alot heavier than stock, cant say enough good things about the level of service from Hardy Spicer in Newcastle and the persistance to get this right.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...