Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My series 1 r33 skyline with series 1 rb25det is got a problem. It idled rough on a cold start untill I give it some throttle. And randomly cuts out when driving around 2500-3000 rpm. It also stalled while idling last night. I've cleaned the aac valve and air flow meter. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, coil packs and put iridium plugs in it and it is still doing it. The cutting out is random as in, one day it won't do it, next day it will and it varies from one quick cut out to 5 or 6 times in a couple of minutes. It is similar to when a car runs out of fuel. Any help would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409320-helprb25det-issue/
Share on other sites

The afm I got was 70mm off gtr and not 80mm for a 25. Car didn't stall while idling and didn't cut out like normal but surged when accelerating hard so the problem could be afm but yet to justify that when I get the proper one. I'm getting a z32 soon but have read that I can't connect it untill im ready to put my pfc in and get it tuned.

Ok so I got a hold of a new afm to suit. I plugged it in and the car was idling rough. Drove ok but idled rough for a bit, seemed to idle ok after a bit of a drive and warm. I'm yet to drive the car today but Could it be cause the ecu needs to readjust to suit.

The part number on it says its the same as the old one I had and the guy at jap autos says its the right one. It not a jecs or Nissan one, its just a aftermarket one but is brand new. I didn't want to fork out for a jecs when I am putting a z32 on it in a few weeks when I get my new turbo.

this happened to me also, i replaced my air flow meter, it took about 20 mins to really change anything as the car was still running wierd, after it warmed up and started rolling on the freeway , suburban roads and stuff, i realised i had no power cuts or engine stalls, so it was my afm, Most of the idle and stalls point to AFM, i found one cheap, and genuine , look around!

BTW just fyi, aftermarket ones are CRAP, mate had one on his r33 and it didnt last very long and caused him issues, couldnt start the car and kept dieing on him all the time.

Edited by willzgtst

Car seems to be running better now but occasionally has a bit of a rough idle and mainly when cold. Also get a bit of a pop/backfire on down shift and in between gear changes when getting into it a bit. Could this be because its an aftermarket afm?

I wasted 2hrs on the dyno today to do what is normally a straightforward tune.

Then i removed the "z32 afm" brand new from ebay and fitted a genuine z32 2nd hand from one of my cars, tuned up perfectly after that.

DO NOT USE COPY AFM's. This is the 2nd time i have wasted time due to them.

Buy a genuine only

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...