Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys.. i need some help.. ive just installed a greddy dual boost controller and gauge.. i took it for a drive today and tryed changing the boost levels and it didnt do shit! when i bought the car old mate said he removed the boost pill?? i dont know what psi 32 gtr's with stock turbs are supposed to run but the gauge read 15 psi and a spike of 17 psi.. seems to high to me but is that what the actuators are set at???? i wanna know what people think..... i could have installed the controller wrong? or something to do with the boost pill

Any input would be awesome!! thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409561-32-gtr-boosting-prob/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Im pretty sure stock boost on a R32 GTR is around 10psi but certainly not 15psi

I think he might be talking about the boost restrictor which is a little piece of pipe that is inside the vacuum line that runs from a T piece in the line to the wastegate, The line bleeds a bit of air back into the intake and has a restrictor inside of it, if you remove it it lets it bleed a bit more air and increases boost

If you have a full free flowing exhaust and a pod then removing it may just as well increase it to 15PSI and even cause a small spike but id put my money on the spike being caused by the boost controller not being set up properly

Anyone please correct me if i am wrong as iv only had experience with RB25'S

Hey mate,

Im pretty sure stock boost on a R32 GTR is around 10psi but certainly not 15psi

I think he might be talking about the boost restrictor which is a little piece of pipe that is inside the vacuum line that runs from a T piece in the line to the wastegate, The line bleeds a bit of air back into the intake and has a restrictor inside of it, if you remove it it lets it bleed a bit more air and increases boost

If you have a full free flowing exhaust and a pod then removing it may just as well increase it to 15PSI and even cause a small spike but id put my money on the spike being caused by the boost controller not being set up properly

Anyone please correct me if i am wrong as iv only had experience with RB25'S

thanks mate,... it does have a nismo catback, pods and m's intakes. i could have set it up wrong, second hand with no instructions. especially the waste gate side twin turbs = a couple of t peices, making hoses the same length and tthis being my 1st rb26...one thing i was confused about was where to put the line that comes from the COM port of the boost solenoid... i t'd it into the black pipe work thats under the larger intake pipework which follows the intercooler piping around and goes to the 2 bovs... the other side of the t peice goes to a hard pipe that runs around the back of the motor...

thanks mate,... it does have a nismo catback, pods and m's intakes. i could have set it up wrong, second hand with no instructions. especially the waste gate side twin turbs = a couple of t peices, making hoses the same length and tthis being my 1st rb26...one thing i was confused about was where to put the line that comes from the COM port of the boost solenoid... i t'd it into the black pipe work thats under the larger intake pipework which follows the intercooler piping around and goes to the 2 bovs... the other side of the t peice goes to a hard pipe that runs around the back of the motor...

i dont know if thats the right spot but i heard its just waste air coming out of that hose.

rido fella's.. i sorted the problem out. i didnt have a port running to a vac/boost source.. it runs on stock 10 psi and high boost of about 14, hopefully thats not to high a boost. theres only one more problem.. on the high boost setting with the foot down it has a boost spike that continually goes up and down from about 14 to 17 psi. if on low boost i change the boost % to the same psi as the high boost% in doesnt spike.. seems weird.. can anyone give me some info on that, thanks heaps

It's probably not boost %, but rather duty cycle %. Gain is most likely the difference between the 2 settings, a high gain setting will cause spiking.

agh ok thanks lance.. ill turn the gain down on high boost. any idea what it should be set at? thanks mate

Getting gain right is trial and error, too high and boost will spike (but build boost really fast) whereas a setting too low, the boost will be stable (but won't build as fast). It's a matter of finding the right setting that doesn't spike, but still builds boost fast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...