Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

IMHO, If the tank & sealer cap is sealing properly, you should get the Psssh, from these thoughts :

1) Sealed tank, 1/3 full, lots of petrol vapor, especially when it's warm, which has probably expanded a bit (There's bound to be some expansion with <>20-30L of space in the tank.

hence the pssh. if the tank's almost full, there would be very little space for the gasses to expand.

2) If you get leaks, esp after some hard cornering, then there is either insufficent rubber/etc sealant around the filler cap, or the top of the filler tube is deformed in some way, leaving an incomplete seal.

3) A cracked / badly joined filler pipe. A good way IMHO would be to completley fill the tank, carefully upto the top of the filler cap. that way there's fuel all the way up there, and you keep an eye out for any leaks. (before moving car etc)

Edit : The petrol smell in the car can come from the above comment too, usually the fumes coming through the boot spaces etc.

(I used to have an old crappy Fiat, which spurted fuel out the filler cap on cornering, ala Die Hard ;-) not good when the exhaust is in the same side..!!! )

After that, who knows.....

My tuppence worth.....

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I accidently left my petrol cap at a servo once (it was my gf's fault! Honest! :P) and drove around like that for a week. Didn't get any dribbles of fuel or anything. Can't say anything about the performance as my clutch was slowly slipping at the time and it felt a bit less powerful to drive.

I posted a "How to" ages ago re this but could not find the original post.

Anyway, the filler neck/adaptor is inserted and stuck in place for compliancing. This is for Aus standards to ensure that only unleaded can be put in it etc.

This job can be done a little sloppy (as mine was) and will not hold pressure. The result is the fuel smell and the vapour haze you see in your drivers side mirror on hot days.

You can use Sikaflex to glue it into position as per the pics.

El Bee

there are many factors to the noise you hear when you open your tank fuel expands and contracts like you would not belive just get a sealed plastic jerry can half fill it with fuel and sit it in the sun it will turn int a baloon put it in the freezer and it will suck in like a sultana

so if its a cold day or you dont have much fuel in your tank your tank wont make the pshhh noise i hope that helps you guys

Congrats to fade on an excellent guide.

I didn't know about the existance of that putty but sounds like it is "the business". Sikaflex works but this sounds even better.

Creating the proper seal is the key.

I agree that the compliancer would be responsible to re-do the job. But you may as well make sure the job is done right yourself if you feel confident doing so.

El Bee

Most defenatly dodgy filler neck/adaptor fitted for compliance.

My old R33 GTST never had the little flap in the nozzle so I dont think it had been changed and it never smelt and allways made the ppsshh noise. Current R33 GTR has a flap and doesnt make noise when you open it. When its low on fuel and you start the car and stick your head out the window to reverse, you can see the fumes and it stinks.

I have had car tuned like this and it didnt cause and fueling probs.

Only prob I see is when near full and twisty roads, its gonna make a mess.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...