Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Converting a 33 to a mac strut is not an easy task. The strut top mounting points are quite far in compared to a mac strut. If just slapped together, I would not be surprised if double digit negative camber was the result. Not only this, but the pivot angle on the strut top would likely be quite extreme over the full travel of the suspension. And on another note, (this next section is theory on my part, I may be quite wrong) the chassis was designed for suspension that directs most of its force vertically. If converted to a mac strut, the angle that it would be on would put a fair amount of force inwards. At a minimum, a strut brace would need to be fitted. Triangulating to the firewall would probably be advisable.

I believe the strut top mounting point is also too far forward to have any reasonable amount of positive caster.

There is one skyline I know of which has been modded to a mac strut. Have you ever heard the name Stewy Bryant? or Nisskid? When the biddies see him, they be froffin... ;)

This is his website: http://inertia-ms.com/

Have a poke around, you should be able to find a few pics of what he has done.

If you plan on having this car road registered, I suggest you stop now and rethink what you want to achieve.

But, if it's just a drift hack...angle grinder, welder, maths and common sense, you'll be swearing at it in no time.

The reason driftworks did it was for less weight and also more clearance when trying to achieve more lock (less arms etc in the way). Driftworks also used their special geo knuckles designed for S chassis which lowers the car 40mm I think without changing any suspension geometry.

  • 1 month later...

There is no good reason. None at all.

Well you've never added anything useful to this site, so why start now i guess eh?

Yes there is some unsprung weight savings with mac strut, but it's far from the reason why most people go down the path. For Drift one of the most important modifications to a car these days is the knuckle design, unfortunately for R chassis cars they decided to use a shitty cast item instead of the stronger and much lighter forged item the S chassis' use. More importantly than the weight to drifters is how much easier it is to cut and shut the knuckle while still keeping strength, as well as how much easier it is to change hubs etc, anyone who has had to change the hub on the front of a skyline frequently, quickly and with minimal tools knows exactly what i'm talking about, it's a head screw compared to dealing with the S chassis gear.

Clearance is also a bit of an issue with the R chassis front end at big lock, the sway bar links further out and the bulky upper arms can possibly create an issue with real large lock setups.

My biggest worry going away from the standard R chassis setup is simply strength, for a drift car, we use mostly the rear end to steer the car, the front end is more of a catalyst, so unlike grip cars which waste so much grip at each front wheel fighting both the rear end and in a lot of cases the other front tyre on the other side, drift cars are more efficient with the front grip they have and don't need to chase the same fractions of percentages of grip up front, so the geometry curves at the front are less critical, and the mac strut does a good enough job for most applications.

It's simplicity is a huge benefit, especially when you're not a race engineer or have access to a team of them, but most of all it's ability to make more lock easier is why the conversion has been done in quite a few R32's around the world, probably most famously the Bee*R R32 etc.

As far as my setup goes, there is very little that still resembles an S-chassis or R-chassis setup, however it does still use the S14 knuckle and strut, the lower control arms, tension rods and strut tower are all completely custom.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well you've never added anything useful to this site, so why start now i guess eh?

Yes there is some unsprung weight savings with mac strut, but it's far from the reason why most people go down the path. For Drift one of the most important modifications to a car these days is the knuckle design, unfortunately for R chassis cars they decided to use a shitty cast item instead of the stronger and much lighter forged item the S chassis' use. More importantly than the weight to drifters is how much easier it is to cut and shut the knuckle while still keeping strength, as well as how much easier it is to change hubs etc, anyone who has had to change the hub on the front of a skyline frequently, quickly and with minimal tools knows exactly what i'm talking about, it's a head screw compared to dealing with the S chassis gear.

Clearance is also a bit of an issue with the R chassis front end at big lock, the sway bar links further out and the bulky upper arms can possibly create an issue with real large lock setups.

My biggest worry going away from the standard R chassis setup is simply strength, for a drift car, we use mostly the rear end to steer the car, the front end is more of a catalyst, so unlike grip cars which waste so much grip at each front wheel fighting both the rear end and in a lot of cases the other front tyre on the other side, drift cars are more efficient with the front grip they have and don't need to chase the same fractions of percentages of grip up front, so the geometry curves at the front are less critical, and the mac strut does a good enough job for most applications.

It's simplicity is a huge benefit, especially when you're not a race engineer or have access to a team of them, but most of all it's ability to make more lock easier is why the conversion has been done in quite a few R32's around the world, probably most famously the Bee*R R32 etc.

As far as my setup goes, there is very little that still resembles an S-chassis or R-chassis setup, however it does still use the S14 knuckle and strut, the lower control arms, tension rods and strut tower are all completely custom.

Charming. I was simply trying to dissuade someone (who is obviously new to all this) from committing wholesale butchery on their car for no good reason and without any proper engineering guidelines to go by. There are a raft of traps to fall into, strength and geometry issues for both the suspension components and the chassis being just the start.

Oh and by the way "grip cars" do not "waste grip". The whole purpose of the exercise is to generate and then use as much grip as can be found.

How did you come to the conclusion about so called Grip cars wasting energy "fighting" opposing wheels??

I'd assume or comes from the idea of locked diffs causing understeer.....

A sorted chassis has no such issues. The majority of the time its the driver not the chassis

Charming. I was simply trying to dissuade someone (who is obviously new to all this) from committing wholesale butchery on their car for no good reason and without any proper engineering guidelines to go by. There are a raft of traps to fall into, strength and geometry issues for both the suspension components and the chassis being just the start.

Oh and by the way "grip cars" do not "waste grip". The whole purpose of the exercise is to generate and then use as much grip as can be found.

lol sorry, i mixed you up with another SAU member who just comes in and talks shit unnecessarily constantly, it's been a while since i've been on here and the names are starting to mix together haha.

and yes, grip cars do waste grip, the rears fight each other around every corner with the diff resisting dissimilar radii, same as the front often depending on ackerman and scrub radius, although more importantly the front ultimately has to fight the rear and it's resistance to turn. All this is wasted grip, drifting wastes it's rear grip through spinning the rear tyres, however it uses it's front grip quite efficiently as doesn't have to fight the rear when turning, in fact the rear helps the front turn. This is why for sharp turns, where the radii differences are so great and there is so much conflict between every tyre on the car, drifting around the corner is often the fastest way, especially in low traction conditions (rally).

Your joking with you drifting around the corner is often the fastest way comment Arnt you??

Low grip gravel rally yes. Any thing circuit orientated your kidding yourself if you think drifting is the fastest way.

If a car is drifting its sacrificing forward propulsion to lateral slip and hence going slower than it potentially could.

Rally guys sacrifice this forward propulsion so they can go faster into a corner as they have more traction in a straight line, the longer they are straight the faster they can go. Due to the low grip they end up sideways, its a trade off for higher entry speed.

Your joking with you drifting around the corner is often the fastest way comment Arnt you??

Low grip gravel rally yes. Any thing circuit orientated your kidding yourself if you think drifting is the fastest way.

did i not just say that? lol

If a car is drifting its sacrificing forward propulsion to lateral slip and hence going slower than it potentially could.

Rally guys sacrifice this forward propulsion so they can go faster into a corner as they have more traction in a straight line, the longer they are straight the faster they can go. Due to the low grip they end up sideways, its a trade off for higher entry speed.

A good example was one time i was skidding in the hills, big rear grip, bugger all front, on a tight corner half way through the engine cut out (plug on the igniter module came off), the front just plowed as soon as the rear straightened, and off the edge i went. I was only able to make it through that corner with that speed under drifting conditions where i could use the rear grip to help steer the car, once i was left to grip up there wasn't enough front steer to keep me around the corner. This is an example of a poorly setup car, but the physics are still relevant.

Anyway this is off the topic, my point is that drift cars use the small amounts of front grip they have very efficiently, and therefore chasing huge grip at the front becomes less relevant, hence camber gain curves etc aren't as critical where the mac strut can some times fall down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
    • Yeah I understand you have to pay for an updated map or subscription service or something. But I can't even find a current map for Australia. My map is dated 2017, but didn't this car version still sell in Australia until 2021?   Also, just as an aside, the navigation system warns you of traffic incidences ahead.....why would they include that on a map they knew is not receiving live information. I am forever going to be warned of an incident that probably existed for 30 minutes 8 years ago.
    • Car has been sold and I am now selling leftover parts. Prices are non-negotiable as I will sell to my mechanic if it won't sell here. Prices are firm except for the Random Parts listed at the very bottom. All parts are genuine except for the S-Tune front bumper. Volk Racing TE37SL 19×10.5″ +12 5×114.3 pressed graphite with P-Zero 275 30 19 tyres [USED] $4,500 Wheels are in perfect condition, have been sitting in my garage for the past 6 years. Tyres still have 90% tread, but since they're now old, I would not recommend you drive hard on them. K-Sport Super Sport External Reservoir Coilovers (made to order) [NEW] $2,500 Front spring rate 14kg, Rear spring rate 7.5kg Fork Type. You can read all about it here (https://www.k-sportracing.com/product_detail.php?Key=12). I was going to start tracking the GTR, but never got around to it. Paid $3500 (after USD conversion and taxes). HKS Kansai Service Tower Bar [NEW] $500 Never fitted in the original Japanese box. R34 GTR S-Tune Fibreglass Bumper [NEW] $500 No mesh - No Box - No damage - just dusty. Nitto RB26 Clear Timing Cover [NEW] $50 Couldn't fit RB2630 due to bonnet clearance. HKS Piping Kit Special Type (BNR34) & Apexi Power Intake Air Filter Kit & Password JDM Adapter [USED] $1,000 Missing some rubber hoses and supports, but you get what you see. Nismo NE-1 Weldina Turbo Back Exhaust & Custom 3.5"straight pipe [USED] $1,000 Needs some love, but perfect for those who want to go back to OEM+. Bayside Blue Aluminium Vspec Bonnet/Hood [USED] $700 Came off my GTR. Unfortunately, the tips have been slightly ground down. It will need some repairing. Bride Low Max Super Seat Rails [USED] $350 The price is for both sides. Will post pictures when I get a chance. Random Parts [USED] - negotiable Standard rb26 cams (intake and exhaust) $10 Stock amber front indicators $10 Standard GTR bumper lower side grills $10 Stock amber side indicators $10 Nismo Sports Resetting ECU $50 Water reservoir $10 Stock airbox mouth $10 Stock fuel rail $10 Stock coilovers from R34 GTR Vspec $100 PM me which items you are interested in. I do work 9-5, so I will be responding daily at best. Best time for pick up is after 5 and before 7 on weekdays, or i can work something out on weekends. I will only accept cash or PayID. Pick up only - located Epping NSW area.
    • sensible choice....and all 32s should be in yellow
×
×
  • Create New...