Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i was recommended the NGK BCP6ES spark plugs.

i rang a few auto stores and they only have NGK BCP6E which they rekon are the same plugs, but i was told to watch out to make sure its the NGK BCP6ES with the S on the end.

anyone (in perth?) know where i can get hold of them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41035-ngk-bcp6es/
Share on other sites

If i could tell you one thing it would be this. PLEASE buy the BCPR7E(S) and gap them to 0.8mm if they aren't already.

If you run more boost than stock (or intend to) you'll be much better off. They're the same thing as the plugs you mentioned but one heat range cooler. They are no more expensive.

Adrian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41035-ngk-bcp6es/#findComment-842659
Share on other sites

Hey Adrian,

I found I was worse off with the 7 heat range. For a daily driver, they fouled a-lot quicker before I got my SAFC than the 6 heat range would. The standard heat range for an RB25 is 5, so 6 is one cooler. I would disagree with getting the 7's unless you got quite a few mods 200rwkw++, and stick with 6's for basic mods, and 5's if completely stock...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41035-ngk-bcp6es/#findComment-843300
Share on other sites

guys, if you've ever tried calling NGK for a recommendation, they have actually told me to sell BKR6E plugs to skyline drivers if they want a cheaper copper core option to the more expensive Platinum and Iridium tip long-life plugs (only differerence is the greater resistance to fouling)

Reason behind the "K" instead of the "CP" is that the "CP" is a projected tip type plug and NGK have discovered that the "K" recessed type plug seems to complete combustion more effectively due to the shape of the cylinder head "squish zone"....

that will add more discussion to your thread (adding to the numerous hundreds of other spark plug threads on here) Oh, and yes totally agree with the gapping and heat range advice above. Buying NGK plugs without the "-11" should give you the default 0.8mm gap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41035-ngk-bcp6es/#findComment-844378
Share on other sites

  • 8 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
×
×
  • Create New...