Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I'm looking to instal an aftermarket boost gauge on my R34 GT-T. It's mechanical so i need to connect the hose somewhere on the turbo line. I've searched around the forums and google a fair bit and thought this sorta thing would have been covered already but i really couldn't find much, or anything with pictures, or maybe i just dont understand it.

But yeah, i thought its better to be safe than sorry, so where and what exactly do i cut and put my T piece to connect the hose for the boost gauge?

Thanks heaps

yeah, ive looked around a bit and thats what most of them say. but im not too familiar with where the intake manifold is or even where the vacuum lines are. And instead of cutting something and ruining my engine i was hoping for something a little more detailed.

like a photo would be awesome, or anything a bit more helpful.

Do some reading up on engines and their basic layout - will help you a lot in future.

gallery_34711_3643_89247.jpg

See the cylindrical shaped thing on the bottom left with a black hose coming out the top of it? That is the blow off valve and the black hose is a vacuum line that runs from it to the intake manifold. You can splice your T piece into this line.

oh okay, thanks for that. I attached an image just to make sure, so the red circle is the tube i should cut to attach the T piece?

I have heard from someone that you can also cut the hose coming from that little black can shaped thing, i circled the tube coming off it. Would i be better off cutting this tube?

So which out of the two would be better to cut.

Another question is, will this cause any problems to occur such as stalling or the car running poorly? It just seems a bit daunting to be cutting a tube going to the intake manifold and attaching a little T piece onto it, thats all :)

post-78310-0-95167400-1348828807_thumb.jpg

Edited by hop1308
  • Like 1

Yes you have circled correctly. As long as it is a vacuum line going to the intake manifold, it doesn't matter which one you cut and splice into. You're cutting into a hose, but the T piece and boost gauge are blocking it up again.

As for issues, there should be none unless you create a leak somewhere. Rationalise that your worst case scenario is having to replace the hose you cut with a new one and what's the worst that could happen?

its not letting me edit my last post, but i looked at the hoses under the hood today and noticed that my T- Piece will fit best on the hose going to the boost sensor as this hose is thinner. I have circled this hose in Blue in the picture, so just making sure, is it okay to cut this hose and put the T piece there to run the boost gauge? the Blue circled one in the post i did above

No, don't T into that hose, as said you won't get vacuum.

On the back drivers side of the intake manifold there will be a vacuum line the same size as that one which goes to your standard boost gauge, T into that.

Basically you can hook your boost gauge up to anything that's plumbed in AFTER the throttle body, except the fuel reg hose, but that's at the front of the engine anyway.

thanks for that, does anyone have a photo of the location i can T into? I'm pretty confused about it at the moment and need to know how much psi my cars at lol.

It'd be the biggest help ever if someone has a photo of the hose, thanks again.

yeah, so if anyone could get a photo of which hose im supposed to put the T piece into, it'd be a great help

I've always T'd into the end of the plenum, where the stock vacuum lines goes into the stock boost sensor for the dash (this is for a R33) I am assuming the R34 is the same.

Look at the black cap on the RHS next to the vacuum line for the brake booster, use that.. or if too hard basket, just snip the BOV vacuum line.. easy.

cp10.jpg

what's wrong with the stock GT-t gauge? reads up to 1 bar.. perfect for stock turbo

Not really! Its got bugger all notches on it so it would be hard to pick what boost it is...... Useless now with 21psi BUT even before then they were pretty useless!

I will be replacing all 3 gauges sometime soon enough.

yeah i was thinking about using the hose going to the boost sensor, but everyones saying you dont get vacuum off it, only boost. I don't really get the photo of the R33 engine, im not too familiar with the hoses of my R34 yet but didn't want to send it off somewhere just to install a boost gauge.

oh and the stock boost gauge doesn't use a vacuum line im pretty sure its purely electrical.

A photo of a R34 engine bay or the hose i should T into would be awesome and save me having to take it to a mechanic over this =\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...