Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

However (and I am not imagining this) ->

After In had the rear brace installed the car is now very willingly going into a controlled oversteer/drift.

This was not the case before.

Also the rear feels less wobbly.

(I am still on the standard suspension)

I like to find out im wrong - let me know if you can come up with an explanation as to how this could be. Until then i'm going with GTSBoy's placebo explanation :)

I have heard many people say that the rear brace does nothing on an R33/34 and your explanation makes sense.... however have you seen the amount of extra strengthening and bracing in the rear of a GTR? All of this extra expense and weight added by the manufacturer for absolutely no gain or reason?

There are a lot of after market (including NISMO) rear braces and I find it difficult to believe that they were all developed cynically just to make money.

I would like to know the answer to this too

I like to find out im wrong - let me know if you can come up with an explanation as to how this could be. Until then i'm going with GTSBoy's placebo explanation :)

That was actually a point I was going to bring up.

Why would Nissan fit these when there is no added benefit?

I think you mean "no added TECHNICAL benefit". Of course, there could be a non-obvious technical benefit that i'm missing, or a non-technical benefit.

This post from SydneyKid is probably the most insightful (and what originally alerted me to the issue - was good to read it again): http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__4744778

  • 3 weeks later...

Well,

I now got the final word on this.

By pure chance I found two pages about removing and re-installing the (front) strut brace in my workshop manual.

It states:

Tightening the middle screw by a full turn!

If you don't believe it, I could upload a scan ...

As above. Pre-load not required or desirable.

That's hardly preload. 1 full turn is 1 thread is 1.5mm.

That's a little dismissive. Distance cant tell you load (force) directly, you need to take into account how stiff the loaded structure is. If the structure is flexible, the load will be low, if the structure is stiff the load will be high.

Any of those strut bars that have an adjuster in the middle are sufficiently flexy on their own that they'd bow up as you put that little bit of "preload" on them.

You don't even need to be an engineer to imagine how little force you'd need to apply to the adjuster to crank one turn into it once the slop had been taken up.

Yeah I see what you mean,

But a full turn on a thread/bolt can put up a significant force ranging into the tons.

(Also that was what I considered to be pre-load)

But my initial question is now answered by myself:)

You're supposed to tighten the bolt, so pulling the brace more together.

Also the manual states that the car has to be on an even surface, not jacked up when installing the brace.

I'm glad I did this right :)

That's hardly preload. 1 full turn is 1 thread is 1.5mm.

If you were to do this jacked in the air I imagine that turn wouldn't be needed (or only half a turn). I find there is a tension difference on my front strut brace between on the ground and in the air.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...