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Rear Strute Brace Preload?

Torques
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MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

However (and I am not imagining this) ->

After In had the rear brace installed the car is now very willingly going into a controlled oversteer/drift.

This was not the case before.

Also the rear feels less wobbly.

(I am still on the standard suspension)

I like to find out im wrong - let me know if you can come up with an explanation as to how this could be. Until then i'm going with GTSBoy's placebo explanation :)

Checkbuzz Rising Star

Checkbuzz

Posted
Posted

I have heard many people say that the rear brace does nothing on an R33/34 and your explanation makes sense.... however have you seen the amount of extra strengthening and bracing in the rear of a GTR? All of this extra expense and weight added by the manufacturer for absolutely no gain or reason?

There are a lot of after market (including NISMO) rear braces and I find it difficult to believe that they were all developed cynically just to make money.

I would like to know the answer to this too

I like to find out im wrong - let me know if you can come up with an explanation as to how this could be. Until then i'm going with GTSBoy's placebo explanation :)

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

That was actually a point I was going to bring up.

Why would Nissan fit these when there is no added benefit?

I think you mean "no added TECHNICAL benefit". Of course, there could be a non-obvious technical benefit that i'm missing, or a non-technical benefit.

This post from SydneyKid is probably the most insightful (and what originally alerted me to the issue - was good to read it again): http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__4744778

  • 3 weeks later...
Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well,

I now got the final word on this.

By pure chance I found two pages about removing and re-installing the (front) strut brace in my workshop manual.

It states:

Tightening the middle screw by a full turn!

If you don't believe it, I could upload a scan ...

As above. Pre-load not required or desirable.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

That's hardly preload. 1 full turn is 1 thread is 1.5mm.

That's a little dismissive. Distance cant tell you load (force) directly, you need to take into account how stiff the loaded structure is. If the structure is flexible, the load will be low, if the structure is stiff the load will be high.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Any of those strut bars that have an adjuster in the middle are sufficiently flexy on their own that they'd bow up as you put that little bit of "preload" on them.

You don't even need to be an engineer to imagine how little force you'd need to apply to the adjuster to crank one turn into it once the slop had been taken up.

Torques Mentor

Torques

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I see what you mean,

But a full turn on a thread/bolt can put up a significant force ranging into the tons.

(Also that was what I considered to be pre-load)

But my initial question is now answered by myself:)

You're supposed to tighten the bolt, so pulling the brace more together.

Also the manual states that the car has to be on an even surface, not jacked up when installing the brace.

I'm glad I did this right :)

That's hardly preload. 1 full turn is 1 thread is 1.5mm.

simpletool Mentor

simpletool

Posted
Posted

If you were to do this jacked in the air I imagine that turn wouldn't be needed (or only half a turn). I find there is a tension difference on my front strut brace between on the ground and in the air.

  • 1 month later...

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