Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

wondering if anyone has anything similar occur....

Basically on startup, the power steering is very noisy but then goes away once the car has warmed up.

The power steering pump has had a full reco around 18 months ago. Before then, the noise was constant.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers

Is the fluid aerated/bubbly in the reservoir?

100% its p/s? Dropped the belt and rechecked ?

Would suck if say it was an idler or tensioner pulley and just sounded like it was coming from p/s pump area then let go

Not sure, it's just really strange that on a cold morning startup the car is fine, no noises. If right then I do a dry steer, the loud noise starts. Once the car has warmed up a bit, it's all perfect and quiet!!! What the!!

  • 10 months later...

Not sure, it's just really strange that on a cold morning startup the car is fine, no noises. If right then I do a dry steer, the loud noise starts. Once the car has warmed up a bit, it's all perfect and quiet!!! What the!!

Pulling this up from a year ago but did you ever fix this problem....mine started doing this exact same thing this morning :(

this was the symptom of mine as the power steering pump was getting on - noisy when cold and dry steering, then would go away.

it will gradually get worse if it is indeed the PS pump.

bottom line is you can leave them for a while without any trouble.

Mine started having a noticeable effect on the slow speed steering when the car was still warming up until I did anything (replaced the PS pump).

good luck!

You can try replacing the fluid to help with cold temp steering. As fluid gets old and sludgey and is thicker than normal when cold. This means it isn't lubing the system as well. Draining the fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid can help.

I have to get around to doing it to my Commodore at some point (when I could be bothered, along with finding the cause of the slight misfire it has). had a leaky pump for ages and had put some stuff in it that was supposed to slow/stop leaks. Basically it was a thick fluid. I finally got a new pump but didn't completely flush the system (just topped it up really), so on cold mornings the steering has a bit of a notch just off straight. Once it warms up it's fine. I did some googling and that's when I found out about flushing the system (which made sense, since the fluid is thinner when warm, and on really cold mornings it was much worse, to a point where on a sub zero morning I had no power steering the first time I tried to turn the wheel).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...