Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I actually owned two R33 GTS-ts before stepping into a GTR :)

My last one made 280rwkw @ 1.2 bar with stock internals... All it needed was forged pistons and rod bolts and I could wind up the boost on that HKS GT3040 turbo and really see what she could do, but I decided to move to a GTR instead.

B-Man, you may take my GTR for a drive in about a month's time :rofl:

Then tell us, what differences did you find between them both.

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

i had a r32 gtr

was a fun car and i drove it ocasionally quick(track, drift, rally)

anyway i sold it for a gts becasue gtr's are boring!!!!!!!!! :wassup:

sure there better, sometimes faster, and all that crap......

so what do ya do you take the gtr motor and stick it in your r31(yea baby!!!!!!!!!!!! :) )

and ive said it before my mum could drive my gtr as fast as i could where as my r31 you have to tame the beast to drive it fast

her is some stats the gtr lapped 0.5 seconds quicker in 4wd around Oran park south compared to when it was in 2wd and it was alot more fun in 2wd

lol

what i found in my experience in driving a slightly modified gts-t and a stock gtr (which i bought stock) both 33s:

1) the gtr is laggier

2) the gtr likes to understeer more

3) the gtr feels much more torquey

4) the gtr has much longer legs than the gts-t

5) the gtr's power delivery is much more linear than the gts-t's

i spent only a year driving my gts-t, but that was my first turbo car. i think the attessa is an awesome thing to have in a car (if you know how to make the full use of it), but i won't say it's idiot-proof.

so in my opinion, a modified track gts-t and a stock gtr on the track, i doubt the gtr will have too much problems keeping ahead (all things being equal, i.e. driver skill). but this all comes down to corner exit, with the gtr being able to get into corners harder and not get sideways too much, or unnecessarily, and that the gtr will be on WOT earlier than the gts-t making for a higher exit speed and subsequently faster down the straight.

for dragging however, i think with 26k on the gts-t would see it outrun a gtr over the quarter, simply based on the fact that the richer man will have the faster car.

and for drifting, i somehow don't think that the gtr is the most suitable of cars.

for a street driven car, i'm gonna say it's hard to drive a 10 sec gts-t as opposed to a stock gtr on the streets for obvious reasons.

fun factor is high in the gts-t this is true.. care factor is also considerably less.

like fatz said: most fun + most crazy = r31 w/ RB26DETT .. cheapest .. care factor riding on zero and if u crash it into a wall you laugh take a photo, and pull the engine out. Whereas a GTR you cry you little eyes out coz you just wrote off $40k

:):rofl:

I LOVE GTS-T's !!!

I really really LIKE GTR's !!!

I fu(king DESPISE LADA's !!!

-----------------------------------------

Spending 26k on mods for your R33 GTS-T will see it utterly DESTROY a Bone-Stock GTR in any of the innitially mentioned applications. Drift, Drag, Circuit. (Probably not 4WD donuts :)). For some it will never be the car for them and i think this is where the true bone of contention lies.

However..... that is NOT the question posed by the Honourable B-Man Esq.

Which is the better car - a highly (26k) modified gtst or the gtr (FOR THE APPLICATIONS MENTIONED). ???

The answer is simple.

The GTS-T.

That is all.

Adrian

for dragging however, i think with 26k on the gts-t would see it outrun a gtr over the quarter, simply based on the fact that the richer man will have the faster car.

Errr... Did you even read the first post?

for a street driven car, i'm gonna say it's hard to drive a 10 sec gts-t as opposed to a stock gtr on the streets for obvious reasons.

26k buys a 10 sec gtst in my book. Auto, 4k stall, off boost, easy as shit.

Adrian

Errr...  Did you even read the first post?

your point being??

26k buys a 10 sec gtst in my book.  Auto, 4k stall, off boost, easy as shit.

Adrian

as i said, the GTR would be an easier car to drive. what's the point of having a turbo which is off boost all the time?

simply based on the fact that the richer man will have the faster car.

That's my point. 45k GTR vs. 45k worth of gtst. Did you read the first post or have you come into this thread half way and started to talk shit like most of the other 11 year olds posting??!?!?!

what's the point of having a turbo which is off boost all the time?

Fuel economy, having more boost up top, more STREETABLE.

Adrian

2rismo, not up to date on your car but surely you've spent some big dollars to get it where it is.. Roughly how much, and what's your best time?

Sorry? Which car? The 1991 Mazda 323 or the R33 GTS-T? I'm not sure I understand the question. You're not up to date on my car and you don't know "where it is" but i must have "spent big dollars to get it where it is"..... ????

I do understand the last bit of the question though. 11.959 @ 117mph - 1.6 60'.

Adrian

Hmm my personal opinion, for street id get a GTSt and mod it, but probably not $25K worth of mods.

if i was gonna go track car it would definately be a GTR, and more likely a 32R, id modd it to hell but do alot of stuff myself and to a budget.. sorta like the one in HPi V6

You're not up to date on my car and you don't know "where it is" but i must have "spent big dollars to get it where it is"..... ????

This is the confusing part, LW. It makes no sense whatsoever. I can't tell whether it's a genuine question or an attempt at having a dig. But as you didn't ask the question in the first place, how about you let meshmesh talk for himself.

Adrian

That's my point.  45k GTR vs. 45k worth of gtst.  Did you read the first post or have you come into this thread half way and started to talk shit like most of the other 11 year olds posting??!?!?!

and my point is that anyone who has money can have a fast drag car. that is a general comment about any car you wish to talk about. why do you take what i say out of context and say i'm the 11 year old?

Fuel economy, having more boost up top, more STREETABLE.

Adrian

and exactly how much more economical will the car be? is that what you consider to be better than a stock GTR on boost in the streets, which is even more STREETABLE??

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I drive the Tiguan much harder than the Skyline in all conditions, because it just grips and hooks, unlike the R33 shit box
    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
×
×
  • Create New...