Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im a huge colonial marine nut and a fan of both the Alien and Predator franchise.. This game is a confirmed cannon sequel to James Camerons "Aliens" albeit in video game form.

Xeno's vs. Marines

Bishop is back (Lance Henriksson)

Hicks is back In both with SP and MP modes with Michael Biehn reprising his role.

Ive already pre-ordered my Collectors Edition for PC. Who else is getting A:CM ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXfp62yVC_0

FPS usually sucks the dick on consoles.

AvP2 was released in 2001 it was one of the best games of its time and still is concidered to be the best aliens game.

AvP2010 was shit and hugely dissapointing :(

Love Aliens franchise.

Watched Escape trailer, had wargasm :)

First trailer won't work though.

Not that I want to hijack the thread but I wonder how much a PC that could run this game in optimal graphics would cost...I am sure it is beyond the capability of my two year old netbook with integrated graphics card :)

yes im getting it and I love what Randy Pitchford(Gearbox Software President and CEO) says about it and is a huge fan which should make sure it a good game

here is a good video for it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4w3vlks9lYY

For all the guys who are geting on PC and for other hardcore FPS gamers this is my Steam profile: http://steamcommunity.com/id/TyranusAU/

Also this is a link to my clan page: http://steamcommunity.com/groups/fear-au

If your interested in joining hit me up fellas.

Not that I want to hijack the thread but I wonder how much a PC that could run this game in optimal graphics would cost...I am sure it is beyond the capability of my two year old netbook with integrated graphics card :)

$1800 at the most to run that on max settings, even then you could do it cheaper depending on what you already have.

A decent gaming PC is going to set you back 3k

$1800 at the most to run that on max settings, even then you could do it cheaper depending on what you already have.

Thanks for the replies guys. I will give it some thought.

FPS usually sucks the dick on consoles.

AvP2 was released in 2001 it was one of the best games of its time and still is concidered to be the best aliens game.

AvP2010 was shit and hugely dissapointing :(

can not agree with you more on that

and yes PC all the way

1.8k gaming pc wont last long on max without liquid cooling.

Rubbish.

I ran a E8400 @ 4.4ghz for 4.5 years and it was on 24x7 on air and i used to game heaps (last 3-4 months, not so).

Upgraded GPU every 12-18 months as needed (usually $500 spend). None of the cards I sold had any degradation and best of my knowledge, still work fine today (even the 4yr old one). Just make sure you select the right parts for the job and you won't have a problem.

I've since build 6 other PCs for friends and all run fine, budget generally $1600-$1800.

Anyway Paul, look @ this list, could refine it more - would run this game on MAX without any problems in the world @ 1920x1080, and would do it for years.

http://www.pccasegea...tion=wish_lists

Obviously if you have monitor then you come in around $1600. Just doesn't include keyboard/mouse/speakers as people generally have these.

So from that, even spending $3000, means it's not going to last! :rolleyes:

It's about as ridiculous of a statement as the one you just made i think?

If a part fails, it fails - that's what RMA is for. If you cooked it however, only you are to blame for that! Fact is the part list i put up will run the game no problem day in, day out forever (not counting part faults :rolleyes:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...