Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently i was getting some squeeling from loose belts on cold startups, so i got under the car and tightened the bolt, unbeknown that it was the wrong one. I later had a look and realised it was the alternator belt that was slipping. So i tightened the belt tensioner bolt on the alternator.. Squeeling fixed.

But, the bolt under the car, for the big belt.. not sure what it runs, is fairly tight.

How tight is too tight? I can push the belt a few mm, but other than that its very tight.

I tried undoing the bolt, which is how you loosen the belt, but it just screws out without moving the adjustor wheel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41198-fan-belt-tightness/
Share on other sites

Its part of the alternator you cant miss it, just look and youll see it, the bolt is facing the body of the car not the engine. Its attached to a metal slide kind of thing so when you tighten or loosen the bolt... it pulls/pushes the alternator towards or away from the engine hence tightening the belt

Recently i was getting some squeeling from loose belts on cold startups, so i got under the car and tightened the bolt, unbeknown that it was the wrong one. I later had a look and realised it was the alternator belt that was slipping. So i tightened the belt tensioner bolt on the alternator.. Squeeling fixed.

But, the bolt under the car, for the big belt.. not sure what it runs, is fairly tight.  

How tight is too tight? I can push the belt a few mm, but other than that its very tight.

I tried undoing the bolt, which is how you loosen the belt, but it just screws out without moving the adjustor wheel.

tighten the belt until you have 5-7mm deflection on its longest run between pulleys

Sumo: YOU are right. the only thing is that I CANNOT undo that bolt!!! it's so farken hard stuck in!!! that bolt is screwed in from the rear of car to front of car, so to undo it you go anticlockwise from the rear looking to the front, i am lifting the spanner instead of pusing down! right? it will not budge!

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
Recently i was getting some squeeling from loose belts on cold startups, so i got under the car and tightened the bolt, unbeknown that it was the wrong one. I later had a look and realised it was the alternator belt that was slipping. So i tightened the belt tensioner bolt on the alternator.. Squeeling fixed.

But, the bolt under the car, for the big belt.. not sure what it runs, is fairly tight.

How tight is too tight? I can push the belt a few mm, but other than that its very tight.

I tried undoing the bolt, which is how you loosen the belt, but it just screws out without moving the adjustor wheel.

hello,there

I am sorry that I don't know any mechanical stuff but i am having squeeling noises from what i suspect to be the fan belts. This is because this happened as soon as I had the fan belts changed last week.

can anyone kindly post photos or diagrams of where the related bolts are to be tightened? thank you,everyone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.  
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
    • Will this fit? but they are staggered set - RAYS 57DR SEMI GLOSS BLACK 18x8.5 +37 | 18x9.5 +38 5-114.3 STAGGERED SET   or If no go could just get a set 4's wheels of 18x8.5 +37 5-114.3 - would i run 8.5's 235s up front n 245's at the back if I do?   Thanks.        
    • Put a clamp on your return line. I have a feeling it's sucking air, and introducing bubbles to your fuel. With a lot of fuel, less problematic. I'd honestly be redoing all the lines in the tank and clamps on everything.   Also, you've given two different answers to the same question: Asked if being followed by the police you could get down to use the whole tank, you said yes you could, so long as you keep off boost. However, you then followed this up that free revving, it would also cause the issues. I'm doubting free revving is enough to make any noticeable boost on what is likely a decent sized turbo.   So now I have to ask, can you actually drive it lightly and use all the fuel, or does it break up even free revving? Also, have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it? Can you hear the pump change noise at all when you're having this issue?
×
×
  • Create New...