Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just went for a quick drive to see if I could notice anything else.

I've got 18 in the top left 3x3 boxes. .44tps.

Idles at 15 fine. Once at full temp I cruised in 3rd at 1500rpm. Every time I came off the throttle it held at 10 for a few seconds( possibly normal and I couldn't feel anything)

Every time I stopped it would idle at 10deg for 10 seconds then slowly raise up a degree every couple seconds til it was back to 15

When taking off again it wasn't quite as bad as the other day and it would hang around 10-12 degrees but once went down to 2deg and stalled.

If I do a data init without my air con hooked up will it do an idle learn properly? Can I do 10 min idle then 10 with demister and lights and should be sweet?

Also are all settings changeable with the hand controller as I've got it all written on paper and don't wanna get stuck if I can't re-enter it all after

Most of the settings that you need FC edit etc for don't really get touched usually so you should be fine to do it all with the hand controller (I don't envy that job but)

just make sure you have your injector data as well as checking everything for settings they have adjusted (eg pressing next when at the air flow meter selection screen to make sure they havent changed the air flow settings)

On my situation, Have had no luck, but it appears as though the TPS vs IGN wasnt a feature on older versions of FC Edit as the saved data I have doesnt have data for this section but I can read it off the old Power FC. Not sure what the go is there.

Getting a bit frustrated with it, might send an email to datalogit and see if they have any answers. I've exhausted pretty much all the settings that I can play with so think I will just have to live with it for now till I get an answer from someone

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If anyone has an older version of FC edit (pre 2.130k) and can confirm that this TPS vs IGN section is missing then please let me know as this might be what the problem is

V2.100 here and it's not there, I assume it comes up under settings 4 in later versions?

V2.100 here and it's not there, I assume it comes up under settings 4 in later versions?

Thats the one

I dont know whats going on, It seems whenever I go off throttle completely for about 1 second or so it goes to the idle map and then takes 1-2 seconds to relise its at WOT again and go to the normal IGN map. If I back off in any gear and watch the timing as it decelerates it sits on the normal map (about 35 degrees I was watching it at for a while) and then as soon as I put my foot down, any gear, any revs it goes to idle map for a second then back to normal map.

Does not happen when below 60 degrees So in cold start map it works fine, couldnt fault it once, but as soon as it hit 60 it started doing it. Have tried setting all the TPS vs IGN to 0 (inc TPS voltage values) with no result, tried data init with no results, tried adjusting TPS with no results except when you go so far that it doesnt go to the idle map anyway. Old Power FC works faultlessly when I plugged it back in.

I might stop cluttering up this thread now, If someone wants to PM me with anything that might help then feel free to, it will be more then appreciated, Im getting quite frustrated with this.

But at the moment I'm nearly thinking it might be a defective Power FC :( perhaps the TPS but I dont see how

Take a log with FC Edit. Email it to me or Jez

I've started another thread in Forced Induction, have put a chart of what the IGN timing is doing and listed all I've tried and worked out. Can save a log tomorrow and send it to both you guys, its weird what the timing is doing but.... (See other thread)

Just a quick one... Is it worth doing a data init to relearn idle without aircon?

Ie- does the Powerfc need the aircon input signal to carry on or not. Can I do 10 minutes no load then 10 with lights and fan and all should be good?

So far so good from data init and idle relearn

I wrote it all on paper then wiped. Just did inj and AFM setting then start.disable O2. Set idle to 900. Did the full 3x 10 min learn.

While it did its thing I entered timing figures and cruise area fuel settings.

Seemed to take off like it used to. Letting off clutch with no throttle timing numbers never dropped below 15. Didn't try too many times before coming home so see how it goes next time but looks promising.

Oh and fark it takes ages to enter values manually :(

Decided to take the car to work tonight and see if its better, went to the servo over the road no worries but nearly stalled as I pulled out. Then played up at the next 3 sets of lights til I was on the highway.

I noticed the car wasn't in as much vacumn as before doing cam timing which is strange as I advanced the inlet cam 6 degrees. Adjusted it a couple more degrees to 40 and seems better. Anyway while I was playing around on the drive I noticed my engine speed signal is sometimes erratic.

When its fine the rpm varies about 5 rpm. But when it plays up it varies about 50rpm at 2k, 80rpm at 3k and over 100rpm at 4k.

Watching rpm in graph mode at 3k and when it plays up the line goes from 1 dot thick to 3 dots thick and creates a thick bold line compared to the others. So maybe the signal is out of whack as the rpm drops as I take off.

Hoping to borrow a Cas and test before it completely shits itself. Might also try adjust how much its spaced out. Currently have clear cover with 2 washers behind each bolt.

Edit: of the 1 1/2 hr drive to work it prob was playing up for 30 mins total

Edited by t_revz

Checked Cas which was spaced out 1 washer from clear cover. Added another washer making about 3mm total.

Started up and still 20rpm variation at idle and 100 at 4kish.

Got it hot and was still gutless taking off. I'm convinced from what I saw today they are 2 separate issues.

All pics are rpm and timing degrees

Let clutch out a little then back in. Timing drops to 10 degrees and is erratic as it slowly returns to 15btdc.

photo-42.jpg

Holding at 1200rpm. Throttle light in sw/sensor check hadn't quite come on

photo-45.jpg

photo-46.jpg

This time rpm only slightly increased but timing was fine

photo-47.jpg

Am I right in thinking the tps voltage can be set as high as possible without it triggering the switch output without any negative effect or does there need to be a gap between throttle released and the switch output activating?

And it will need to do an idle learn after adjustment?

Am I right in thinking the tps voltage can be set as high as possible without it triggering the switch output without any negative effect or does there need to be a gap between throttle released and the switch output activating?

And it will need to do an idle learn after adjustment?

Can play with the TPS after the idle learn is done with no ill effects. All it is doing is telling the car if the throttle is closed or open basically. So the only ill effect you can have is the car wont go into the idle map and wont fuel cut on decel (as far as I know anyway) if you set the TPS voltage to high. To low, and you might have problems in low throttle situations, but I have never really thought about this

I have ordered a new TPS because I want to be sure that its doing the right thing . Just for the record the Pt No on the outside of it is Jecs A22 661 , this is for a 96 Series 2 manual GTS25T . Nissans part number is 22620 17U10 but I'll have to confirm that .

I'm doing this because I get some strange feathered throttle things going on and through other peoples experiences it seems TPSs are a consumable item .

A .

TPS in and working and I like to think its a tad snappier but maybe placebo effect ?

I had the Datalogit in log and moniter mode because I wanted the closed throttle voltage to be exactly the same . What surprised me was that this system is so slow to register position changes and a quick prod of the throttle often shows no voltage change ?

I/m really not sure which part of the loop ie car/PFC/Datalogit could cause this but you'd think it was the PFC .

Can someone realy into these Power FCs give me a history lesson on what era electronics they have ? BTW I bought mine through Performancewise before the supply dried up through lack of CPUs ?

I'm going to search for threads on PFCs vs plug in G4s/ViPecs to see what people who've used both really think results wise . I really want my car to run as well if not better than standard and have better consumption if possible . I'd like to think that engine management has come a long way (OE and aftermarket) since 1996 .

A .

The delay and missing spikes is because of the way datalogit communicates with the power fc, it's pretty slow and not everything gets through, especially if you have the hand controller plugged in whilst logging. The power FC itself responds much quicker, it wouldn't be able to run the engine properly if it didn't.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...