Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys

A Jim Berry full monty has come up for sale near me pretty cheap ($600)

apparently only done 10 circuit laps

Im wondering, will the full monty be too much for around 200kw

It will be going into my stagea, i'd like something that i can launch pretty hard with as the stagea isn't the best off the line with the stock clutch

I know they are supposed to be really goo clutches but will it be too full on for a street driven car with not that much power?

Let me know if you think its worth getting or not

Cheers, Tom

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi Tom, Depends on your driving style and if you are going to enjoy it daily.... My JB clutch is awesome to drive! Its certainly more aggressive being a button but i drive it daily quite happily :)

I've got a standard Jim berry modified clutch in my 33 its as light as the factory clutch but is a little bitey and its holding 336kw great! Never used his full monty clutch but id imagine it'd be VERY aggressive but for the price it will hold 200kw for an eternity lol

the stagea is the pull type same as 33gtr/34gtt and from what ive seen generally cost over $1k

the clamping pressure is also 4400lbs on the JB clutch for sale

pretty sure for most applications the words 'launch' and 'overkill' cant be used in the same sentence, unless you are daily-ing it through mumbai's peak hour, i would go the most expensive/military duty you/your left leg can afford

the stagea is the pull type same as 33gtr/34gtt and from what ive seen generally cost over $1k

the clamping pressure is also 4400lbs on the JB clutch for sale

Thats a lot of clamp, mine is 4600lbs and its not likely to slip anytime soon :P They really are a good clutch and the pedal is surprisingly light!

I think the NPC was $880 or something.... What does the JB come with? Clutch, plate, bearing and flywheel?

Looks like everything bar flywheel

Offer them $500 and get your old flywheel machined :D could send the whole thing to Jim with the flywheel just so he can check its all good.....

Offer them $500 and get your old flywheel machined :D could send the whole thing to Jim with the flywheel just so he can check its all good.....

better off getting a billet flywheel (if its still you still have the factory cast one). You don't want to introduce cracks and explode during use.

500 plus the money for a fly wheel is still a good buy

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

how much for a billet flywheel and where from?

or, seeing as its holding fine at my power level, would i be better to put money towards a nistune and tune?

how much for a billet flywheel and where from?

or, seeing as its holding fine at my power level, would i be better to put money towards a nistune and tune?

If it aint broke dont fix it! Remember you would be looking to do rear main seal, flywheel and a few other bits...... Plus the labour to do!

BUT if you have a stock clutch they dont last with power long so its catch 22 :/

labour will be me and a mate probably

currently the car makes around 130awkw but will hopefully get a highflow and tune over summer and make whatever is safe on stock injectors and afm

mega catch 22

seeing as its not a ridiculously good deal i might leave it or lowball the guy, i thought $600 was a great price but im glad i asked!

Price is fair but there are other costs that surround it! My 34 clutch slipped at 200kw which was also where my injectors were maxing (Some say 220kw but not mine)

not sure if mine will be the same as 34

i'd say it would be a33 gtr clutch as thats the same box that the stagea's use

Same clutch :thumbsup:

NPC Billet Flywheels = $430 or so. Great product

I will say that the NPC clutch I have is great but the Jim Berry is slightly cheaper.

NPC is new, Jim berry is second hand.

Pro's and Con's as you already know.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...