Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just finished putting my manual 25det box into my auto r33 s2 2door skyline and have hit a snag i have put the new clutch pressure plate and cover on and new release or throw out bearing (wateva you guys like to call it) once i have the gear box on the engine and bolted up, the clutch fork is jammed and wont move i noticed this when i bled the lines and the pedal was hitting the floor, I checked the lines again no air in them, then i got under the car and tried to move the fork by hand and couldnt it is solid i can move the fork towards the slave cylinder but the fork will not move forward to push to bearing onto the clutch, frustrated (obviously) i took the gearbox back off to check the following: 1.)pivot ball and clutch fork alignment which was fine pivot is not broken and the clip holding the fork to the pivot is in position and not broken. 2.)the clip holding the bearing collar the fork also in place not broken and working fine when the gearbox is off the car...... thats whats really bugging me with the gearbox off the car the the fork can move full travel up and down the shaft like it should everything in place and looks good. The moment the gearbox is flush to the motor and bolted up the fork will not move i have taken the box off a few times now to double check the fork and bearing assembly and im running out of hair to pull out any idea on what could be causing this issue? could i have been given the wrong clutch cover/bearing/pressure plate? its an oem exedy kit so its all meant to go together the cover has nine bolts like it should i double check the pressure plate is facing the right way and have come to the end of my tether any help or advice is greatly appreciated plz plz plz help me I wana drive my car soooo bad thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412853-clutch-issues-25det-g-box/
Share on other sites

after i wrote the first post i went and had a look at the box again and i had a look in through the hole where the fork is, it does move a lil bit backwards but to get the bearing to come off the clutch the slave cylinder has to be off and so does the rubber boot that goes around the clutch fork otherwise its just on the clutch the whole time and with the slave and boot on there still a little movement in but only in the direction to pull the bearing off the clutch it seems to be in contact with the clutch the whole time

If the carrier can slide up and back even a little bit that means it's not jammed. I'm thinking it's a hydraulic problem because you say you bled it but the pedal still goes to the floor.If there was a jam and the system was bled properly then the pedal would be solid and wouldn't push in.

Just a thought, go and check your clutch pedal adjustment and see where its at. It might be screwed in too much and need adjusting out.

Out of intrest, how did you bleed the clutch?

ok will check the pedal adjustment and i bled the clutch with a vacuum bleeder that i hook up to my compressor umm and yeh the fork did move a lil bit and with the boot off the fork i could see the bearing moving up a down will double check again cheers for helping out dude will check back soon thanks again

Clucth plates is right way around it specifies transmission and flywheel side engraved on each side of it i think dobs is right i justneed to adjust the pedal as it was all the in will check back soon once again thank u all for your awesome advice and help any one with info or diagrams on how to wire neutral and reverse lights would help also i have wired the park sensor to a switch so i have sorted that and my speedo plugs fits the manual any helpon this matter also appreciated im so glad i signed up to this site everyone is so awesome and knowledgeable and willing to help thank u all cheers

will check all of the above have reinstalled all of the gear and ready for bleeding unfortunately i no longer have a vacuum bleeder any hints/tips on bleeding the system i have three bleeding points slave,master, and a lil junction box inbetween the two which also has a nipple on it the slave and master are brand new items that i bought so shouldnt be buggered is there is anyway i couldve stuffed them? thanks again guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...