Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r33 and have a problem with it

at idle it runs rough. On light acceration its goes ok but coming on boost it miss fires if you stomp on it it just splutters. Just replaced coilpacks, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter and cleaned the afm with crc brand maf cleaner. but still have the problem this is a small list of the mods

greddy plemium

apexi power fc

z32 afm

hks turbo

tomei cam gears

fmic

3'5 zorst

any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/412933-r33-rb25det-problems/
Share on other sites

Is the pfc software set to the z32 afm make sure the plug gap is .8mm and check if the wiring to the z32 afm is right you can read the plug wrong from left to right had a car in the

other day with same problem all it was was the afm wiring was wrong if ths is all ok check fuel pressure and the tune

def woulnt be a melted piston it wouldnt go do_a_skid

andogtr z32 air flow meter has always been in the car and tuned to the power fc. it only started this problem a few months ago it just got worse. i regaped the old plugs and cleaned them and put them back in and now goes hard. but it did that with the new plugs for a few days then went back to how it was. so might be fowling the plugs ? the new ones i pulled back out are really black and sooty .

Well Curtis you are getting some were sounds now like the tune and fuel pressure need checking i actually dyno tune and fault find for a living done alot with pfc s if you need to run it on our dyno we are in ulverstone at southside on 64259320 your only in burnie arnt you so wouldnt be much of a hassle to look at your car for you Cheers and good luck

Yea post up if tune fixes it. My stagea is doing the exact same thing. Hand controller says it leaning out on output (-12). Valves have been opened to maximum when previous owner had it tuned by fuel tech in Launnie.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...