Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 193
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Haha, it's been like that lately Matt :)

There is still more stuff in the post too!

Nah both for VVL Michael. The closest one to the bolting face is for the intake cam, the other is for the exhaust.

I bought new solenoids as mine are playing up a little bit from time to time. So time to eliminate the problem..

Also it's always good to have a spare.

It's good to know it looks similar to the RB25 solenoid. The GA16DE in the N15 Pulsar (non SR engine) also has VCT on the exhaust (i think), but no one has been able to confirm whether it would actually work in the VVL housing.

Also I haven't been able to find a wrecker wiling to separate with the solenoid out of the engine.

Well FAST tells me the part codes are the same for all but part #s are different. The SRVE part also appears to be exactly what you have there with the 2 solenoids screwed into the housing so there's no individual part #s for the solenoids themselves in that respect :/

16rvo9.png

Hmm, yeah okay. I could never get FAST to work with Windows 7 lol. I had it when i had XP with no worries.

The valve block + solenoids that I have are the 23796 - 1N51B so the SR16VE one (the SR20VE never came in an N15)

I knew I had to buy the whole solenoid block with solenoids, just to buy the solenoids (hence why I did).

But that's okay, I got a pretty good deal on a brand new block + solenoids.

  • 2 weeks later...

Well the plan was to do the exhaust this weekend, but the promised parts and bends never arrived on time, trusty couriers...

That will be next weekends job now, so stay tuned.

I have quiet a few bits and pieces in the post atm, I will update once they arrive. :)

Yeah man, was the same as the run I did recently, the intake cam wasn't switching due to a dicky plug due to Scott jamming a 3mm multimeter probe up a 1.5mm hole. I've fixed it for now, Dean is sending me another plug next week.

So the exhaust is on, it took quiet a few hours to get sorted as I've never done an exhaust before. A lot of measure twice, cut once. There is still a slight issue with the catback I bought off a forum member hits the rear beam linkage. I suspected it would as my car is quiet a bit lower than his. That's not an issue atm, as the car will have to be raised a bit 10 - 15mm minimum, I want at least 80 - 90mm clearance on the 4-1's, so ride height will suffer a bit.

Function > Form

If this doesn't fix the problem, i'll pull the rear section of the exhaust off and fix it so there is plenty of clearance.

The car is ridiculously noisy, it more or less has an excuse of a resonator and a good size Magnaflow rear muffler (offset to center) I'll be buying a different resonator to put in the system tomorrow.

The top end of this car now is unreal though. Has an extremely strong pull, even more so than before. The exhaust note and rasp was described to me as sounding (exactly like a N/A 13B bridgeported rotary I built years ago) by the guy who helped me out with the exhaust.

So it's loud as f**k and raspy as f**k too haha.

Here's a few photo's anyways, sorry some of the photo's aren't great quality, it was quiet late when I took photo's of everything.

20130331_221155_zps81b2d490.jpg

20130331_221200_zpsc6639179.jpg

20130331_221208_zps3443f00d.jpg

20130401_013024_zps54aad185.jpg

20130401_014346_zps3bd16f39.jpg

20130401_015520_zpsc89f7f46.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

So I started machining up a prototype solid cross member bush, it's only made out of steel at this stage, though they will be similar to the ones available in the US that consist of aluminium and delrin or another nylon material, they will be like these B15 ones:

100_1343.jpg

Since I didn't really know how thick to make them (since the OEM rubber was all squashed/torn) I had an educated guess. The sizing was pretty damn close. the washer needs to be 0.5mm thinner and the head of the 'bush' needs to be 2mm thicker so that the crossmember bolt doesn't bottom out on the chassis/radiator support, squashing the washer and bush to the crossmember and chassis.

20130418_182854_zps73860f21.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Well not too much going on atm.

I'm waiting on a solid center clutch before I put my LSD gearbox back in. I'm in the process of getting my Sparco mounted up a bit better on a Bride rail for an N15.

I'm keen to buy a few more handling bits and pieces in the future, so stay tuned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • You've got yourself a good old game of have fun. That shit is annoying as hell to remove. Thankfully for you, yours is on metal, most of the stuff I take it off is plastic, so typically hear guns are out. I normally end up continually dragging my thumb with pressure over it to get it to peel up. Eucalyptus oil then works well for getting residue and last remnants off.   Edit: plastic scraper might be worth while too. One that'll dig into the foam tape, but not scratch the paint.
    • So I ride and race motorcycles for fun and have always used a van to transport my track weapons. Figured towing a racebike with a skyline would be different and if done right could - "look fully sik" or quite cool for us grown ups lol. Pic of yours truly on two wheels I also have a trailer already kitted out to transport my bikes ...and I have a spare set of rims that match the car that I was going to rebarrel to get deeper dish at some stage but they have just been gathering dust. Sooooooo it is only logical.... Stay tuned !!    
    • If by "flap disc" you meant "chocolate wheel".... then they are OK for getting off stubborn remnants. But not for stuff with bulk depth. If by "flap disc" you meant "abrasive paint f**ker"....
    • Beauty, thanks guys, got some ideas now. I note that none of you agreed with the flap disc so that's good to know. 👌🏻
    • I had small pin holes in my glazing putty but didn't want to put more putty to not make a mess again and I put 2 coats of epoxy primer to prevent it from rust. Though you can only see the pin holes if your eyes are almost against the panel. Do you think when the 3x coats of high fill 2k primer and 2 base coats go on that it will be visible? 
×
×
  • Create New...