Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

okay i don't know for 100% but this is definitely not looking good.

how much did you pay for the car and can you get your money back ???

maybe if you got it "for a steal" you can just sorta ... sell to scrap metal... and wash your hands of the whole situation,... cos SEVS has no Q45 i can see

and being a 1989 - it cant qualify for pre 89 rule either...

...im sorry, man!

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

eps being a 2004 import and an 1989 model it would have been imported under the old 15 year old scheme which did not require 15 year old cars to be complied just had to be modified where necessary to meet basic ADRs and then be signed off by an engineer for rego. the exact requirements vary from state to state.

you might have some problems explaining why the car was not complied in 6 years since it was imported. luckily for you the scheme still exists but in a more restricted format (no longer rolling 15year window, now fixed at 1988 and older) so you may be able to find people who still do this type of work and know what needs to be done to your vehicle.

I'm assuming you still have the VIA? you'll need that at the least. As to whether or not you can replace the engine before getting it signed off and registered I would be asking that question of the registering authority in your state and the engineer or workshop who is going to be getting it done for you. you may still have a problem with it not being complied for 6 years but as far as I know there is no expiry date on the VIA once the car is imported so you may be ok.

richard - my mistake! I thought that as it wasn't ''complied'' before the 15 year rule was phased out, then he'd have no luck... If thats the case then he'd want paperwork at least showing when the car was imported!! But thanks for correcting me

yes, VIA = Vehicle Import Approval. No car can be imported to aus without one and that piece of paper will state under what scheme the vehicle was imported. that info will tell you whether or not it could be complied. as to whether or not it still can be you would need to check with DOTARS. personally I would do it sooner rather than later. the longer you leave it the higher the chance that some rule will change preventing you from getting it registered. even if you don't want to register it right now still get the work required to meet ADRs done and get the engineers sign off. That way you wont have problems when the time comes. but if it was under the 15yo scheme you should be fine. but again, my advice doesn't matter, only DOTARS can tell you what the deal is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...