Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

short and simple for now as i meant to write this 2 hours ago but procrastinated

basically about two years ago i read the frankiman build over there at the canadian gtr owners club

this made me really desire a gtr and well being 18 and stupid i jumped at the first thing i found

which was my first mistake, it was in terrible condition but i didnt look hard enough.

second mistake was the money i poured into it (no mortgage no family)

ive found myself up creek without a paddle to the tune of about 34k

and well, i couldnt even sell it for 12k, (ive tried)

i am seeking advice in regards to this issue as i have given up and am needing to move on with this chapter of my life

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413946-my-own-little-sob-story/
Share on other sites

Rails dented. Paint is crappy, big patch missing on bonnet. Dash has gauge holes in it. Wheel arches have rust. Skirts have rust.

Not sure about the registerable status but I imagine it wouldn't be a walk in the park. I'm not sure about the accident status. Looks quite straight but the rails suggest it has gone over an end or just been jacked up wrong

Rails dented. Paint is crappy, big patch missing on bonnet. Dash has gauge holes in it. Wheel arches have rust. Skirts have rust.

Not sure about the registerable status but I imagine it wouldn't be a walk in the park. I'm not sure about the accident status. Looks quite straight but the rails suggest it has gone over an end or just been jacked up wrong

Hmmm, your best bet is to just find a clean, straight registerable shell, transplant everything, then sell it off.

Or get the current car registered then sell it off.

A local panelbeater had a car there with dented rails. His Tech teacher friend was inspecting it, so yours truly has a squizz.

The teacher said that the rails can be boxed or the cheaper way was to drill a hole in each rail > thread it > insert a bolt > pull the bolt down.

How did you pour 34k into a car without noticing any of the issues before hand......if they were as bad as you say they were.

Most things can always be fixed/Restored if you have the time and funds to do so.

In your situation maybe best to cut your losses instead of chasing that 34k back. As above i'd pick up a shell a transplant it all. if you poured your money into engine, and other bolt ons. Then just call a 3k shell and expensive lesson.

How did you pour 34k into a car without noticing any of the issues before hand......if they were as bad as you say they were.

I can see how he's done it but I would have looked a bit better first.

if hes bought EVERYTHING on the car new then its certainly doable. I have $10k in mine before I refit the steel panels and paint it. that said I did buy most of the bits new for it.

Most things can always be fixed/Restored if you have the time and funds to do so.

yep! patience is a virtue especially if you own the place where it is stored for a few years.

In your situation maybe best to cut your losses instead of chasing that 34k back. As above i'd pick up a shell a transplant it all. if you poured your money into engine, and other bolt ons. Then just call a 3k shell and expensive lesson.

given he has lost patience with it - I would certainly agree.

Hmmm, your best bet is to just find a clean, straight registerable shell, transplant everything, then sell it off.

Or get the current car registered then sell it off.

i feel the current is far from being able to be registered. it was imported under the 15 year old rule before that was axed and an engine failure meant it never was registered first

You could part it out....

i dont think itd be worth all that much like that?

A local panelbeater had a car there with dented rails. His Tech teacher friend was inspecting it, so yours truly has a squizz.

The teacher said that the rails can be boxed or the cheaper way was to drill a hole in each rail > thread it > insert a bolt > pull the bolt down.

once the rails are done there are all the other imperfections too, shell seems the way to go

He would get more money for his time if he parted it out

How did you pour 34k into a car without noticing any of the issues before hand......if they were as bad as you say they were.

Most things can always be fixed/Restored if you have the time and funds to do so.

In your situation maybe best to cut your losses instead of chasing that 34k back. As above i'd pick up a shell a transplant it all. if you poured your money into engine, and other bolt ons. Then just call a 3k shell and expensive lesson.

had the car for 2 weeks before i sent it off for engine rebuild, didnt see it again for a couple of months,

i will be going down the shell line, its the most sensible option

I can see how he's done it but I would have looked a bit better first.

if hes bought EVERYTHING on the car new then its certainly doable. I have $10k in mine before I refit the steel panels and paint it. that said I did buy most of the bits new for it.

yep! patience is a virtue especially if you own the place where it is stored for a few years.

given he has lost patience with it - I would certainly agree.

patience comes and goes with it haha, sometimes i am in the mood, other times i really just want it gone

swapping into a clean shell is the way to go i feel, one last hit at it and hey i might even find love for it again

Transplant or part out. Once the ralis are damaged, As far as I know the system its a statutory write-off.

It might not be on the WOVR register yet, but when someone goes to get it pink or blueslip for rego the red flags will start flying.

Edited by badben

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...