Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOR SALE

1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GTT

Engine:

R33 GTR engine

After market cams (not sure what brand or specifications, not bought by me)

Nismo AFM's

550cc injectors

Splitfire coil packs

Nismo fuel regulator

BMC air filters

Blitz intercooler

New Gates timing belt and Gates water pump installed 1500 km's ago

Apexi Strut Brace

Greddy external oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit

Apexi Power FC ECU

Driveline

Rebuilt 5-speed transmission less than 5000 km's ago

Jim Berry 5 puck custom race clutch

Nismo GT LSD 1.5way diff centre installed less than 5000 km's ago

DBA Front Disc Rotors and EBC Green Stuff brake pads

DBA Rear Disc Rotor and Bendix Ultimate brake pads

Apexi Type R Coilovers all round

Nismo front suspension arms

Wheels & Tyres

Konig 19"x9" front with Khumo KU31 235/35/19 (Good tread)

Konig 19"x9.5" rear with Khumo KU31 275/31/19 (Good tread)

Interior

Alpine head unit with iPod connectivity

JL audio speakers front and rear

Defi gauge cluster (oil temp, exhaust temp, water temp and boost)

Blitz 4 stage electronic boost controller

Viper Alarm system with remote start function

$21000 ono

Any other questions or if your interested call or txt 0432672018, no reasonable offer refused. Car recently made 385 rwhp and is the perfect start platform for a big power machine or for a track/circuit car. No test pilots or joyriders, serious buyers only.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414029-for-sale-r34-gtt-with-r33-gtr-power/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Getting alot of people offering way too low or wanting to swap for another tuner car. If the right cash offer or a cash and stock car trade offer comes along, this car will go quick.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...