Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the G Max twin plate in my R33 GTS25T I assume the actual feel of the clutch would be similar in the GTR though I think your's would be Pull type as against my push type.

It feels the same weight as standard but the take up is much more abrupt ie its either in or it's out. Forget about slipping the clutch as you engage.....until you've had a fair bit of practice there just isn't time... and it's not good to slip them either. look forward to a few embarrassing stalls "til you get used to it. Once you've got it sorted out though it's really good...I won't be going back to the normal type. They are supposed to be rattly in neutral and I think the OS Giken is, but mine is not. To sum up I think they are good for about 600hp and much better than going the heavy duty singe plate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-850140
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for that, yeah i just got this email back from Nengun regarding their clutches:

"I will be adding all the ORC clutch range to the site soon. I highly recommend the ORC clutch over the Nismo one. Recently I saw the ORC drift car in action. I was absoulutely amazed at how much pressure the clutch was put under. On the nengun site the Black GTR34 has a twin plate ORC clutch in it. They are so strong and you dont get big quads everytime you have to push the clutch in. I stopped selling the OS brand because the flywheels warp. The light weight ORC Flywheel is 4.8 kg the Nismo one is 6.7 Standard is 9.7kgs.

I can sell the Twin plate ORC 709 /700Ps for 113,000 Yen + 23,500 yen for delivery

Total 136,500 Yen @AUS ANZ bank rate 77.12 is $1769.96 AUS

Regards

Brent"

Think i'll probably go with this one

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-850867
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I just installed my ORC Racing Ogura Twin Plate on my R33 GTR.. these clutches are a push type & the R33 box is a Pull type. So whilst I was installing the new box & the new clutch we needed the adapters to convert the box from pull to push cost $350 from Nissan for genuine parts. But damn, this cluch and flywheel make such a difference it's amazing. I believe these have the lightest flywheels at around 4kg's and you can tell too. The revving is now so linear and smooth, I actually feel boost comming on ~500rpm earlier. As far as embarrasing moments.. well hey I'm getting use to em, after 2days it's getting easier, the clutch pedal is not bad at all "I dunno what everyones on about how hard they are" in fact it's feels quite normal, maybe a tad harder than the standard pull singles. But definately feels tight and sure. These are also serviceable, so if the clutch dies, you can rebuild them for ~$1000. But the best thing I have to say is that sound... it's freaks everyone out, when you engaged the clutch the Rattle is awesome, cars next to you look and think "what the?" I love rolling all my mechanic mates who claim to be the be all and end all of performance tuners. I'd go past and see'em and tell them to listen to this sound and tell me what it is as I'm worried about it.. they all say "definately your thrust bearing is gone!!" ;) get's em all the time. Amatuers..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-870113
Share on other sites

I agree with 51jay, th nismo Gmax is a 'hard to get used to' clutch, but it is tough with a good launch ability. Its either on or its off..............you can dump it hard and it just bogs down and goes.

But...................it makes my skyline bloody suicidal to drive in the rain. You dump the clutch, the wheels spin, the motor revs, you make more boost, the wheels spin harder, the motor revs harder, you make more boost etc etc etc You do the best launches on a wet day, and you don't even want to do it [f@#ckin' hard to explain to the cops who are right behind you].

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-870197
Share on other sites

meshmesh..... Glad you like it....i won't say told you so !!. Never said they were hard..as in heavy.. just the opposit.. they feel like standard. But they are on or off!!! heehee!

The Nismo doesn't rattle like the others.

Tridentt150v.....hahaha!....you haven't mastered it yet....I have no problems taking off in the wet....even with cops behind me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-870216
Share on other sites

meshmesh ahhh ok, so we still don't know how the ORC goes...

1800 delivered from nengun... someone bite the bullet and get one :rofl:

This is what Brent (from nengun) said to me about the ORC

"700PS. I took a GTR34 for a drive today and felt very smooth. There is noise once you push the clutch in. "

as in can hold 700ps....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-871750
Share on other sites

meshmesh ahhh ok, so we still don't know how the ORC goes...

Hi ferni,

Not sure if I'm reading this wrong or not, but my clutch is an ORC Ogura Racing Twin Plate - Push Type Clutch.

Either way, I'm rapt with it. Especially the sound of the rattle. Just got to get use to the take off's, gets a bit embarrasing sometimes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-871955
Share on other sites

i may end up ordering one before that, mines at the end of its life...

Somone tried to tel me a twin plate wll get wrecked if you launch to many 6000rpm launches... i would think it would be stronger than a single heavy duty?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-871958
Share on other sites

Ahh ok...

and your happy with it?

It only rattles when clutch is pushed down to floor (ie disengaged) right?

I'd like to go for a ride in your car/hear/feel the clutch if your willing mesh

I Love it... Makes me feel like a man :)

Yes it only rattles when you push the clutch down, and obviously during gear changes. (whether this is called disengaged or not I dunno)

Just let me know when you wanna go for a ride.. the car should be at ICE either saturday or next week some time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41433-nismo-clutches/#findComment-872023
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...