Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh as above 22 is exactly flush.

I had 8.5" +22 on my ARX im pretty sure i ran a 245/45(or 40) on them and got away with a simple guard roll on the rear..

9.5+22 looks awesome! especially since the ARX has the "rub guards"

:yes: with Sunkist and 'tuckin7'.

I have 19x9.5 with +20 offset running 245/40/19 tyres on an RS replacing 18x8 +38 offset with 245/45/18 tyres.

Guards rolled and new BC BR coilovers bring them inside the guards.

Initially had just lowered springs all round but hung out the front guards by 15mm or so. The back almost flush. Photos to be uploaded soon.

AFAIK, the ARX has the wider guards so should fit fine, ie; +20 or +22 offset.

yeh as above 22 is exactly flush.

I had 8.5" +22 on my ARX im pretty sure i ran a 245/45(or 40) on them and got away with a simple guard roll on the rear..

9.5+22 looks awesome! especially since the ARX has the "rub guards"

Lol I wonder how so we roll the plastic crap fender?

Hot blade and carefully cut a small amount off.. And roll the actual fender. Works a treat, and doesn't look like the fender was modded at all

Aaron why would you not go above +28? I'm running +37 with no scrubbing!

Because ideally not all of you are actually tracking the stageas, so a bit of looks(for some) may be the more preferred thing over wheels that aren't in with the 'flush' crowd. Just saying what can fit, and what it will take is all. I personally didnt like how sunken the +38 looked, especially that the rub guards make the guards look wider..

Opinions..

End up getting some 19x8.5 +17 with 245/40/19, on stock suspension they look just inline with the guard. But when I go over a big dip at speed the rear just touches the guard lol.

Would harder springs on the bc's reduce that from happening? Also by lowering the wheels will camber in a bit right?

And roughly how many cm is a good lowering height for the arx without risk destroying my spanking new blitz exhaust?

the stiffness may stop it from bouncing that low..

but if you wanted to lower the car, and have correct camber, you will need a roll.

can't remember the height, Daleo i think did a pretty good write up on measuring heights back in the day with BC coils.. have a search

the stiffness may stop it from bouncing that low..

but if you wanted to lower the car, and have correct camber, you will need a roll.

can't remember the height, Daleo i think did a pretty good write up on measuring heights back in the day with BC coils.. have a search

For your viewing pleasure;

Ok, due to the number of people fitting these at the moment; I thought I'd supply my rough adjustment numbers for initial set up.

These numbers won't be ideal for everyone, but the aim is to have a ballpark setting to speed up the fitting process, as the fronts come set extremely low, and the rears rather high. You can then fine tune heights to suit your preference, or even go to corner weighting to acheive a perfect setup.

Front;

Free length of coilover assembly; 387mm from underside of top mount plate, to shoulder of lower mount (the part that makes contact with the forged mounting arm)

Spring length; 195mm from underside of top mount plate to upper spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer)

This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm

Rear;

Spring perch height; 45mm from the widest dia. of the machined perch to the outer spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer)

The spring perch faces down; so the measurement will be taken from the highest part of the shoulder to the lowest flat surface of the lower spring collar.

You will still be using the rubber bumper from the spring cup in the lower control arm.

This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm

The reason I haven't included ground clearance measurements is depending on rim diameter, tyre profile, and bodywork heights; these measurements will vary wildly if you're running 17x7s with 215/5517, versus someone running 19x9.5s with 265/35/19 and so on.

My car doesn't scrape on very much at all and with 245/45/18's on 18x8 V35 rims; has about a 12mm gap between guard & tyre when looking in from the side of the car; which is about spot on for my eye.

Have fun guys, and feel free to add any measurements and set up tips for others to benefit from.

Cheers, Dale.

FYI; the last set if fitted (Rosella's M35) had shorter springs than mine.

They are now marked with a Blitz logo, and require at least another 10-15mm on the rear collars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...