Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh as above 22 is exactly flush.

I had 8.5" +22 on my ARX im pretty sure i ran a 245/45(or 40) on them and got away with a simple guard roll on the rear..

9.5+22 looks awesome! especially since the ARX has the "rub guards"

:yes: with Sunkist and 'tuckin7'.

I have 19x9.5 with +20 offset running 245/40/19 tyres on an RS replacing 18x8 +38 offset with 245/45/18 tyres.

Guards rolled and new BC BR coilovers bring them inside the guards.

Initially had just lowered springs all round but hung out the front guards by 15mm or so. The back almost flush. Photos to be uploaded soon.

AFAIK, the ARX has the wider guards so should fit fine, ie; +20 or +22 offset.

yeh as above 22 is exactly flush.

I had 8.5" +22 on my ARX im pretty sure i ran a 245/45(or 40) on them and got away with a simple guard roll on the rear..

9.5+22 looks awesome! especially since the ARX has the "rub guards"

Lol I wonder how so we roll the plastic crap fender?

Hot blade and carefully cut a small amount off.. And roll the actual fender. Works a treat, and doesn't look like the fender was modded at all

Aaron why would you not go above +28? I'm running +37 with no scrubbing!

Because ideally not all of you are actually tracking the stageas, so a bit of looks(for some) may be the more preferred thing over wheels that aren't in with the 'flush' crowd. Just saying what can fit, and what it will take is all. I personally didnt like how sunken the +38 looked, especially that the rub guards make the guards look wider..

Opinions..

End up getting some 19x8.5 +17 with 245/40/19, on stock suspension they look just inline with the guard. But when I go over a big dip at speed the rear just touches the guard lol.

Would harder springs on the bc's reduce that from happening? Also by lowering the wheels will camber in a bit right?

And roughly how many cm is a good lowering height for the arx without risk destroying my spanking new blitz exhaust?

the stiffness may stop it from bouncing that low..

but if you wanted to lower the car, and have correct camber, you will need a roll.

can't remember the height, Daleo i think did a pretty good write up on measuring heights back in the day with BC coils.. have a search

the stiffness may stop it from bouncing that low..

but if you wanted to lower the car, and have correct camber, you will need a roll.

can't remember the height, Daleo i think did a pretty good write up on measuring heights back in the day with BC coils.. have a search

For your viewing pleasure;

Ok, due to the number of people fitting these at the moment; I thought I'd supply my rough adjustment numbers for initial set up.

These numbers won't be ideal for everyone, but the aim is to have a ballpark setting to speed up the fitting process, as the fronts come set extremely low, and the rears rather high. You can then fine tune heights to suit your preference, or even go to corner weighting to acheive a perfect setup.

Front;

Free length of coilover assembly; 387mm from underside of top mount plate, to shoulder of lower mount (the part that makes contact with the forged mounting arm)

Spring length; 195mm from underside of top mount plate to upper spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer)

This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm

Rear;

Spring perch height; 45mm from the widest dia. of the machined perch to the outer spring collar (the part of the collar in contact with the spring and plastic washer)

The spring perch faces down; so the measurement will be taken from the highest part of the shoulder to the lowest flat surface of the lower spring collar.

You will still be using the rubber bumper from the spring cup in the lower control arm.

This will give an approximate guard to hub centre measurement of 360mm

The reason I haven't included ground clearance measurements is depending on rim diameter, tyre profile, and bodywork heights; these measurements will vary wildly if you're running 17x7s with 215/5517, versus someone running 19x9.5s with 265/35/19 and so on.

My car doesn't scrape on very much at all and with 245/45/18's on 18x8 V35 rims; has about a 12mm gap between guard & tyre when looking in from the side of the car; which is about spot on for my eye.

Have fun guys, and feel free to add any measurements and set up tips for others to benefit from.

Cheers, Dale.

FYI; the last set if fitted (Rosella's M35) had shorter springs than mine.

They are now marked with a Blitz logo, and require at least another 10-15mm on the rear collars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...