Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Like I said above, the 6768 had no problems making power, we did not push it ... barely touching 18psi for the 500 awkw. Making the power down low is where we need it then winding up the boost to make the top end is the plan !!

500 awkw is enough to play with (to start with)... I've done about 8 laps in the car so far... 5 at Phillip Is with no power steering and maybe 3 around SMP North Circuit with the Holinger with oil pressure warning alerts, which ended up being a case of trimming down the alert threshold at low rpms.

Should be fun once its sorted!! Still got to get used to the sequential but no problems slaming through the gears with the foot flat to the floor down the striaght !! :)

Ok guys, I need help finding a rear wing... Voltex can't make me one in time, the local APR distributor has not got back to me, He said he was getting a few dual pane Nemo style ones in (designed by the man!!) and I asked that I get my name put on one...

Anyone have any suggestions on where I can get one quickly or know someone that has one lying around ??

It needs to be 1695mm + 200mm long (including end plates) !!

Michaels email is [email protected]

http://www.kognitiondesign.com

Or lightning composites are in aus http://www.lightningcomposites.com.au/

As are topstage.

Edited by DCIEVE

Thanks... Freddy seems pretty good. See how I go. I like his front diffuser too.

Need to find someone to make the wing mounts. Thinking of going around the back and under the car ala GT3 style??

New fuel system was fired up today.

New Turbo should be delivered by end of next week.

Will need to wait for Jim (Tunehouse) to get back before it gets tuned. Gives me two weeks to get everything else done.

Still need to choose wing, get it and sort out mounting.

Front bar needs to be remounted and secured better as it broke the side mounting bolts and was dragging on the ground at speed.

Ive been away, back tommorrow... Time to pull the finger out!!

Do you want it in dry carbon or fiberglass John?

I have a custom widebody fenders that will clear 315/xx/18 11-12 inch easily. I have a spare fiberglass front fenders, Topstage has the moulds for both front and rear fenders atm. If you are keen then you should talk to Freddy but I think you are leaving it too late.

The rear will involve cutting your whole fender off and replace it with a dry carbon piece. The front is "almost" bolt on. I made some modification to the firewall for aerodynamic reason and the fender is shaped for it...if you struggle for time and dont have time to modify the firewall, then cut off the inner "flare" of the fender and bolt it straight on to your car..it should still help with the aerodynamic.....that's if you sweet talk Freddy into working 24 hours.

Best bet is to flare the rear and look for another wide front fender. I searched everywhere before and could not find a dry carbon one or even a wet carbon with aerodynamic on it for the r32 gtr...hence I had to design my own. I even bought one from EA and it did not fit. I am happy help you out if you are stuck and let you have my fiberglass one, if you need it, with the right offer..... I really don't know how much it worth...but it costed me a bomb and lots of hours.

Check my build thread if you want some pictures.

Talk to Freddy John. Between Freddy and I, we have most of the R32 GTR body moulds. I don't really know how much to charge you for using the mould...just ask Freddy for a fair price....happy to help another SAU member.

Good luck John and it will be good to catch up on the day.

Thanks for the offer on the front guards just pm me what you want for the fibreglass front guards and send me some current pics of what they currently look like... I will let you know if I am interested.

I was hoping for a bolt up straight fit solution to the front guards and Im anticipating the rear is not going to be that straight forward.

Im not looking for a long term solution as the car will be going on a diet after WTAC and Im going to have a proper look at the aero.

My priority is to get the mechanical, electrical and chassis sorted and get some seat time... Everything has to work and be reliable hence the looks are not so important for my first WTAC...

The FG were prepared and primed for the mould. They have been wrapped straight after moulding and in storage since. I won't have time to take it out just to take pictures but it should look like this

These look awesome! How much wider are they, and are these actual pics of the guards to fit R32 GTR?

Do they have more clearance for extra lowered cars as in John's car now has the option to go lower as the roll centres are raised?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...