Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 161
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeah... a 10cm distance :whistling:

Usually don't have someone hooking under the arms, just ready to assist with the bar shadowing it. When I used to do squats years ago in a supervised environment we were just instructed to drop them, never got assisted. Wrong or down to preference?

Although that was a while ago, could be mixing up the dropping with deadlifts. My memory is terrible.

Edited by JEPPE

down to preference i believe. i've read people say (actually over in the gym thread here haha) that if you're going on heavy weights (where you might have difficulty) then don't use the collars, so that if you really are in trouble then just tip over and drop off the weights. remember that the bar will swing up though haha

^^^ That's only with Benching.

If you're squatting by yourself, you really should be doing it in a power cage with the safety bars there to prevent you crushing yourself or damaging the bar.

You can't spot a squat by shadowing the bar.

unless you want to hurt yourself and the lifter.

Edited by TTT

I suppose it wasn't spotting as much as it was assisting, I get what you mean though.

Have seen people using the cages before, sometimes they seem to do it at obscure angles though. Is it meant to be used as if squatting without a cage?

in a proper comp, you have spotters on either side of the bar too.

Their job is to help lift the bar.

the spotter behind is there to keep the lifter from falling or folding over etc.

Charlie - the safety bars can be removed.

you can do everything in there as the pin height where you put the bar has many heights.

Most of those cages will also have chin up handles on the top and some have dipping bars on the side.

That's why they are great for home gyms.

you get a power cage, a bench, barbell and weights and you can do 99% of what you need.

the best technique in heavy squatting is to have no spotter behind you, and if you fail you just throw the bar behind you.

It's the safest and easiest, and means you don't need a power rack or a spotter to squat to failure.

the best technique in heavy squatting is to have no spotter behind you, and if you fail you just throw the bar behind you.

It's the safest and easiest, and means you don't need a power rack or a spotter to squat to failure.

I honestly can't see how it's possible to get the bar to fall BEHIND you on a squat that you failed due to being unable to lift it.

If you squat high bar and can keep your torso upright, it will be easier to dump the bar behind you.

Low bar and wider stance has you leaning forward more.

That would be hard to dump the bar behind you.

Also depends where in the lift you fail.

If your hips raise faster than your torso (bad form or fatigue etc etc) you'll end up in a good morning type position and you won't be able to dump the bar behind.

If you squat high bar and can keep your torso upright, it will be easier to dump the bar behind you.

Low bar and wider stance has you leaning forward more.

That would be hard to dump the bar behind you.

Also depends where in the lift you fail.

If your hips raise faster than your torso (bad form or fatigue etc etc) you'll end up in a good morning type position and you won't be able to dump the bar behind.

Yeah I was thinking this.

Plus I'm in the mindset of low bar anyway, high bar is uncomfortable as all shit for me.

I honestly can't see how it's possible to get the bar to fall BEHIND you on a squat that you failed due to being unable to lift it.

let go of the bar and move forward. Maybe easier with a high bar upright squat but unless you are good morning the squat for some reason it's easy to do with a low bar squat too

Or you could squat in a rack/cage that has safety bars and ass to ground it onto the bars if you can't lift it...

I hate squatting in a cage, everything is so close and i get a bit claustrophobic.

Outside is fine, it shouldn't be that often that you are failing on a squat in training anyway

the best technique in heavy squatting is to have no spotter behind you, and if you fail you just throw the bar behind you.

It's the safest and easiest, and means you don't need a power rack or a spotter to squat to failure.

provided you have bumper plates and a floor that is okay to drop weight on

when at commercial style gyms I squat with no spotter and no safety bars... then you have no choice but to make the lift... you'd be amazed how a bit of panic/fear can help you out of the hole lol (don't do this with 1RM attempts obviously)

provided you have bumper plates and a floor that is okay to drop weight on

when at commercial style gyms I squat with no spotter and no safety bars... then you have no choice but to make the lift... you'd be amazed how a bit of panic/fear can help you out of the hole lol (don't do this with 1RM attempts obviously)

I know, that's why i never squat with spotters or a rack.

I guess if you can't drop the weights then use a rack i guess. Spotters are useless imo for squatting when training

Markos posted this on another forum... a must read for girls (make sure you read the last couple of pages)

http://startingstrength.com/articles/training_perspective_gillian.pdf

"In Mark Rippetoe’s words, “Your appearance when fit is almost entirely a result of your genetics,

which are expressed at your best only when your training level is at its highest, and this level is only

obtainable from a program based on an improvement in your performance, in the gym or on the

field. And the best improvements in the gym occur when participating in a program that looks more

like performance athletics – the kind of training done by competitive athletes – than one that looks

like waving your arms and legs around on a machine or slowly rolling around on the floor” (Strong

Enough?, p118)."

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...