Jump to content
SAU Community

Uprev Reflash

Vthirty5
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
Posted

On the web, you read that the Uprev reflash can have up to 5 stored tunes which can be accessed via the cruise control. Any options for our cars without cruise control?

Does Chris's mod to add cruise control work with the uprev reflash mod to chose a tune?

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted (edited)

My theory on this is that it should work considering the factory cruise control switches are wired into the ECU directly. That said, I'm not sure if there's a bit of code from the factory ECU software which needs to be present in order for the UpRev code to function. The one glimmer of hope that I have is that when I submitted my V36's ECU dump to them, (ECU code #: 1ND2A) I was told that it was identical to that of an ECU in the US. Considering cruise control is a standard issue item up there, my theory there is that it should actually work.

So while the lack of a cruise control module will render it inoperable as a cruise control system, the switches should still allow the UpRev code to respond accordingly for its mapping. The question is, who wants to be the guinea pig of this theory? :)

If nobody gets around to it before I do (which I dare say might be a long while as I've got other priorities), then I guess I'll be that guinea pig.

Edited by The Max
vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
Posted

I don't know WHEN i'll get around to it due to working M-F, but the cruise control (Chris's version), and an UIpRev reflash are definitely on the list. Also finding a Sydney place offering UpRev is not as easy as it is for those further North. :verymad:

If I found an easy solution to the second problem, it would make the first a little more of a priority, and maybe the tune house could talk directly with UpRev US to determine its compatibility.

I contacted a Marrickville dyno tune place I thought might have it, but they do not, and they offered me a piggy-back ECU and tune for 1.7K including the dyno tune.

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Look I'm going to copy and paste, cause the same Convo is going on with 350z people. Bit sick of people not bothering to get off their ass and asking the same question over and over!

Sorry but there is a lot of misinformation here.

I have lost count of the number of times that I have said the same thing here and on the v series section on sau.

You can buy uprevs tuner software for $700 usd. If you have a laptop, download the software for free. If you don't, get the tuner to download it. Any tuner is able to tune uprev. The program is very easy, and similar to almost every other kind of software. Any decent tuner will NOT have a problem using the software. Put it this way, I have no training in tuning, I read the instructions which are comprehensive, and after I dropped 600cc injectors in my car, tuned it so I could drive to the tuners. It's that easy!

If you ecu isn't supported, provided its the correct ecu type, you can dump the rom, send it to them. They'll send you back 4 different files, tuneable ones, and also a back to stock. I have done this twice now with them, dumping m35 stagea, and also r51 pathfinder ecus.

There is no mapping out or anything to be done. You just dump the rom and send it to them, if it's not on the supported list.

Now onto "accredited" tuners. Uprev pro tuners are only tuners that have paid uprev for the privilege. They get a tiny bit more flexibility in how they see logging, and I suspect they get some maps for various cars to work off. There is nothing magical about them.

Finally, if your tuning a stock car for bolt on mods, NOT bigger injectors, you should not be paying more than $300/400 for the tune. Really it's a piece of piss. Enough practice, I could do it.

So chose your tuner for their tuning ability, not because they have or haven't used uprev.

Sorry for the rant, but people think tuning is some magical dark art. It's not. At the basic bolt on stage is fuel, air, spark.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted (edited)

Look I'm going to copy and paste, cause the same Convo is going on with 350z people. Bit sick of people not bothering to get off their ass and asking the same question over and over!

So chose your tuner for their tuning ability, not because they have or haven't used uprev.

Sorry for the rant, but people think tuning is some magical dark art. It's not. At the basic bolt on stage is fuel, air, spark.

It takes me back to the days when I went to the MoTeC seminar back in 2003 and learned a great deal. Up until then, all I knew was how stuff generally worked to fix my Maxima but I didn't really understand the science behind what conditions called for the right lambda or how much ignition timing advance is too much, etc. Of course then there were the intricacies with setting up the idle air stepper motor, tips on determining the ideal PID values when calculating against unknowns since idle stepper motor specs weren't available, checking with them my idea of ground-speed based boost control and so on.

The road dyno tuning I did to my vehicle as a result was pretty damn good but the one thing that was the killer remained to be the ignition because you can't really hear the first onset of slight pinging when you're driving (unless it's down a laneway with fences all the way from top to bottom, heheh). I learned a lot about ECU tuning on my M800 and it definitely proved that even an electrical engineer can tune a car.

So you're right, it's not a mysterious art form but it does help to find someone with the right tools and a good solid foundation of knowledge. That's why I'm set on taking mine to Tunehouse. Aside from the fact that I met the owner at the same seminar all those years ago, I rate the Dynapack dyno that he uses, he knows his stuff and more importantly, he runs a professional business. Despite him offering a piggy-back ECU, I'm sure he'd take on the UpRev option if you supplied him with it. That's my plan. What he does from there on in is then entirely up to him. He might even like it enough to go that way too instead of piggybacks.

Edited by The Max
vee35 Enthusiast

vee35

Posted
Posted (edited)

Tony, it was Tunehouse. Maybe we should talk. Providing two cars in one go (with others interested) may be the push they need to make the commitment to getting UpRev enabled / experienced or whatever.

Their price did worry me, but it did include a new ECU piggyback unit. I liked them for it as I want the dyno tune and the drive-in-drive-out service they would provide.\

On a side note, my garage in Bondi Junction provides a Dyno tune service, whereby they send the cars to marrickville for the tune (no piggyback ECU, just a tune), and they said it would cost around $1200 and said the guy was really good. I think it would be sent to Tunehouse.

Edited by vee35
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

I'm not planning on tuning mine for a little while yet. I've got other priorities at the moment since I'm so short on time. Once all the electronics I'm working on are sorted out, that's when I'll be paying Jim a visit. I doubt he'll remember me after 9 years but I know I can trust him and his team with my vehicle regardless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...