Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so i finally went to the exhaust shop n got it checked out. turns out my control box isnt working (the little black box that reverses polarity n that) they're asking for $70 for a new one with the remote. I've barely got any cash at the moment and was wondering if anyone knows of any places to get them cheaper?

or better yet, i've heard there are ways to by pass the box totally, and just have it wired to a switch or something? i get it takes 12v to close and something about reversing the polarity to open again?

I found this diagram on the internet, is this correct? I don't really understand what its saying. hopefully i can find someone that does :ses5lro.jpg

or this this the correct diagram bellow?

post-78310-0-59408300-1357141955_thumb.jpg

Edited by hop1308

couldn't figure out how to do the wiring at all. just bought a new control box and remote. works a charm.

car sounds stock with the butterfly closed.

I've looked into the legality of it, and it seems the whole system itself is illegal no matter what. because there is a way for that exhaust to be louder than the legal limit, and it can be called a noise cloaking device or somethin like that. not too sure how to get around this if i get pulled over lol

the massive VAREX written ontop of the cannon itself doesnt help. i wish i could sand it off.. seriously considering just putting black tape over it lol, but that might draw more attention to it :\

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...