Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah very true Andrew, it's not going to make much of a difference.

I just rang Simon (the guy I mentioned above) and he said that it's possible to make at least a 10hp gain just by using light weight pistons and rods. 10hp isn't much, but it all adds up.

  • Replies 136
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

meshmesh- yeah we'll have to twist Nigel's arm to get this going I think!!! It would be more accurate if they are done on the same dyno and same day....

Merli- be more than hapy to see your beast on the dyno!!!!

sub- fantastic!!! what sort of time frame you looking at having your car ready????

Anybody out there with the Apexi AX's on a GTR (in Melb)???

meshmesh- yeah we'll have to twist Nigel's arm to get this going I think!!! It would be more accurate if they are done on the same dyno and same day....

Yeah, it'd be a lot better.

Same dyno, same day, same air temps etc etc.

The list goes on.

hey jack,

i had the t517z-10 on my bluer34 and it made 345kw on bens dyno, i think at 1.3.

i had t517z-8 on my silver r34. in my opinion the 8s are much nicer, im surprised u went with the 10s, u seem to be concerned about lag,then why the 10s, if u had a built engine and were aiming for bigger numbers than 350 i would understand.

i think if u drove a 8cm car , u may spew u went with the 10s.

ben may still have the dyno sheet for the apexi ax turbs, he tuned one for me about 2 years ago.

hey jack,

i had the t517z-10 on my bluer34 and it made 345kw on bens dyno, i think at 1.3.

i had t517z-8 on my silver r34. in my opinion the 8s are much nicer, im surprised u went with the 10s, u seem to be concerned about  lag,then why the 10s, if u had a built engine and were aiming for bigger numbers than 350 i would understand.

i think if u drove a 8cm car , u may spew u went with the 10s.

ben may still have the dyno sheet for the apexi ax turbs, he tuned one for me about 2 years ago.

Did yo have any trouble with the turbos/oil temps ?

What sort of power difference with the T517Z 8's vs 10's ?

Jeremy

Hey Dean,

I didn't know about the two sizes until after I bought them!!!! Oh well, you live and learn I guess.... Was there a considerable difference between the 8cm and 10 cm???? As far as response and power???

Just looking at JMS's old R33 GTR drag car, and they're claiming the car made 381 rwkws on 1.3 bar, using T517Z 8cm low mount turbos.... Heres the link to the page which also provides a dyno graph....

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/whiter33gtr.html

How do they get so much power out of these turbos on 1.3 bar and stock motor???

Does this seem right???

Guest INASNT
Just looking at JMS's old R33 GTR drag car, and they're claiming the car made 381 rwkws on 1.3 bar, using T517Z 8cm low mount turbos.... Heres the link to the page which also provides a dyno graph....

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/whiter33gtr.html

How do they get so much power out of these turbos on 1.3 bar and stock motor???

Does this seem right???

every car jms has had they have bullshitted their power. I remeber they were saying their rb25 was making over 400rwkw with stock internals and living

I remeber they were saying their rb25 was making over 400rwkw with stock internals and living

I have seen 3 of their cars die, smokey deaths at that. :wavey: But hey when you have a warehouse full of spares, does it really matter? At their cost, it probably works out cheaper to keep replacing standard engines than building a decent one. :wassup:

Hey Dean,

I didn't know about the two sizes until after I bought them!!!! Oh well, you live and learn I guess.... Was there a considerable difference between the 8cm and 10 cm???? As far as response and power???

i dont think there was a huge difference with power with 8s and 10s, but the 10s were a bit laggy, a bit 2540 ish. i didnt like them

Just looking at JMS's old R33 GTR drag car, and they're claiming the car made 381 rwkws on 1.3 bar, using T517Z 8cm low mount turbos.... Heres the link to the page which also provides a dyno graph....

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/whiter33gtr.html

How do they get so much power out of these turbos on 1.3 bar and stock motor???

Does this seem right???

Thats one hell of a dyno graph - very nice, I am asking the same question too, how does that engine hold together in stock form ?!

Posted by Jack  

Just looking at JMS's old R33 GTR drag car, and they're claiming the car made 381 rwkws on 1.3 bar, using T517Z 8cm low mount turbos....  

How do they get so much power out of these turbos on 1.3 bar and stock motor???

So in other words if I put some '****tail' fuel and advance the timing, should I expect a considerable difference in power (in excess of 350rwkws) without raising boost???

More boost = More power

More timing = More power

Too much of either = Detonation = Risk of engine failure.

You can phuck an engine with shitloads of timing at low boost, or shitloads of boost with low timing.

Decent fuel > Pump fuel

Timing and boost with decent fuel > Timing and boost with pump fuel

Power output with decent fuel > Power output with pump fuel

Cost of decent fuel is minimum $5 per litre = $100 per 20 litre drum

This will give you 40 litres of fuel in your tank = 2/3 full, if mixed to 1:1 ratio.

Total cost of fuel in tank = $120

Running 1.3 bar with decent fuel @ cost above = Pointless and IMO stupid.

To summarize,

Guys @ JMS or any other workshop around the country (yes, including the guys from Perth) do not have a secret, or a trick unknown to others, to make a lot more power than Ben @ RacePace or Nige @ ICE. If you want more power, go and see the boys and they will give it to you.:)

The JMS car has done 11.2, i did 11.4

JMS car had 385 rwkw, i had 330 rwkw.

The mph on JMS car is not known, i did 124 mph.

There is not much point in delving into matters any more than that.

:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...