Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did a bit tinkering.

Cut down the studs on the V35 that were a few threads too long so now all the center caps are on.

Also sprayed the tow point cover. I think the Jap ones usually have a big number plate holder that covers this (hense the 4 little holes that ive covered with trim clips) but this is for the US market where some dont have to run front plates. Was only like $20 and will get rid of that gaping hole under the plate.

Sprayed it and for once using clear it didnt turn it into a orange peeled mess.

For those playing at home, scuffed it up, 3 coats plastic primer. 3 coats normal primer, light sand with 1200, 4 coats colour and the 3 really light coats of clear.

20130423_094925_zps2c6c751e.jpg

Not a perfect colout match but ok for home job and lot better than a gaping hole

All the holes bar the bottom 2 are covered by the plate and I sprayed 2 more at the same time as the tow point cover so should hopefully stick a bitbetter than the ones flaking in the photo

20130423_095113_zps7054fc6d.jpg

Thats about it for the V35 for the near future so back to the 14 for a while

Got my interior trim pieces back from paint. Put LED lights in the cup holder. Also colour coded the GT badge to match my calipers (it's the little things, right?) and fitted the Vertex roof and boot lips. No pics though. post-22161-1366687364671_thumb.jpgpost-22161-13666874021846_thumb.jpgpost-22161-13666874295571_thumb.jpg

Do you actually use your cup holder Mat? I find it very impractical given where it is.. same with the console bit with the sliding cover - again impractical because soon as you put a bottle or whatever in it you can't change gears properly.. i use that bit for my ipod/phone

got any pics of vertex roof and boot wing? cant find anything on there site?

or is it the vanquish gear off YJP?

im umming and arring about getting a uras one for mine

Look up 'Vertex Digna v35' on google images. Same as the black one.

Do you actually use your cup holder Mat? I find it very impractical given where it is.. same with the console bit with the sliding cover - again impractical because soon as you put a bottle or whatever in it you can't change gears properly.. i use that bit for my ipod/phone

I'm 5AT with paddle shift - I just select 'D' and I'm done! Plenty of room for cups/bottles/etc

I'm 5AT with paddle shift - I just select 'D' and I'm done! Plenty of room for cups/bottles/etc

oh haha, if i have a normal sized bottle you can forget using 2nd or 4th gear. Can is fine though..

<br /><br /><br />Look up 'Vertex Digna v35' on google images. Same as the black one.Ah thats why. done buy the USA branch and not T&E in japan so wasnt on the jap website

<br />My stuff is from Japan. Bought it off the ex-Vertex importer in QLD. It has all the jap documentation/instructions/metal plaque/stickers etc - so it is very much available from Jap given i can't understand a single word on the paperwork! He had an entire lip kit which I was trying to buy - we agreed on a price and postage but when he went to courier it the postage price quadrupled, so I had to pull out and take just the lips. If you're in QLD I can give you his details, he had two complete kits left, all brand new. He was asking $1300. Rrp for the lip kit is USD 2600 - the lip spoilers are nearly 500 each. Such good quality, finished in gel coat, hi filled and sanded - my panel beater didn't even have to prep them.

That's the guy, Lee. His name is Masato - I spoke to him on the phone a few times and verified him before transferring my cash. He was good to deal with. Took some quick pics just in the garage. post-22161-13667200946444_thumb.jpgpost-22161-13667201091408_thumb.jpg

Installed my new brakes - 370Z Akebonos front & rear. Second pic shows stock size front rotors vs new 350mm x 32mm front rotors. My stock premium coupe 18" rims won't fit over the front brakes - need to either get different rims or try a small spacer. I've got a set of 350Z rims that fit, so have them on for the moment.

post-98010-0-32626900-1367058374_thumb.jpg

post-98010-0-40904000-1367058440_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...