Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am getting close to finished on my brakes. Stripped to bare metal, resprayed, QFM HPX pads, Nismo steel braided lines and shiny new bleed screws. Now just got to bleed them without stuffing up the paint :-x<br />post-22161-13651340861767_thumb.jpgpost-22161-13651340985532_thumb.jpgpost-22161-1365134114317_thumb.jpg

got the tyres swapped over onto my new rims for the rear

19x10.5-3(+5 with 8mm slip on to clear brembo's) Will do the extended studs on the other side tomorrow so I can put both on, then just need money for tyres for the front

Took out the lock ring so cant go any lower without being super dodgy and removing the whole upper spring seat ( so may just drop out on big bumps)

20130405_163959_zps1a374912.jpg

20130405_164009_zps41a2b733.jpg

20130405_164019_zpsa84fc9a5.jpg

Installed my dimpled/slotted rotors, QFM HPX pads, S/S Braided HEL brake lines, brake flush + oil change.

8623891614_f78d4d893e.jpg

Oh and took advantage of Good Year's 4 tyres for the price of 3 sale, and bought Eagle F1 Directional 5's all round.

I've noticed a marked improvement in brake feel and performance... very happy.

Mushilea - what order did you bleed the brakes in? I followed the g35 FSM which said drivers rear, passenger front, passenger rear, drivers front.....haven't driven the car yet but I'm questioning the process. I understood to always bleed from furthest point from master cylinder.

Mushilea - what order did you bleed the brakes in? I followed the g35 FSM which said drivers rear, passenger front, passenger rear, drivers front.....haven't driven the car yet but I'm questioning the process. I understood to always bleed from furthest point from master cylinder.

Furthest away first. Your right.

Remember the g35 will have the master cyl on the opposite side, yeah? Thus telling you the wrong order.

While I think you'd get away with it, I'd do it again because you know, brakes are sorta important. :P

Yeh I thought that might be the case. I used a motive power bleeder and put through two and a bit bottles until no bubbles came out. Bled three times in total and even knocked the calipers with a mallet to break loose any air pockets. So maybe I will see how it feels on the street and if not up to scratch I will try the old method.

Dropped my car on the deck with the BC's in - didn't even touch the settings out of the box - have less than a finger gap all round and clears the rolled guards by 2-3mm on full compression, and 100mm clearance underneath so I am stoked! pretty happy with how it looks - now to see how it rides an handles.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...