Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have pulled apart the steering column surround to have a look at why the telescopic adjustment is not working (dying for another inch of steering reach!) on my R32 GTR.

Once the surround was removed I have discovered that the steering lock mechanism/bracket is broken - therefore not allowing the steering to be locked.

post-32397-0-81392700-1355386307_thumb.jpg

post-32397-0-69329500-1355386331_thumb.jpg

I have no idea how to remove the damn thing as there are no screw/bolt ends?! I'm guessing they are security bolts of some sort, and I could drill them out.

post-32397-0-73088300-1355386525_thumb.jpg

The question is

- once removed how do I bolt on a new one?

- can the ignition barrel be swapped to a new bracket so I can keep the same key (to match boot/doors etc)?

Also - why on earth wont the damn steering adjust reach (tilt works)?

Cheers

i don't think skylines have reach adjustment. i know my r33 didn't.

as for the ignition barrel, yes you can get a new one that is keyed the same as your old one. there should be a number on your old one which you could take to any decent locksmith (not just one of those key cutting places) and get it sorted

Yes 32's have up/down and in/out adjustment.

From memory it's a big job to remove the whole column, some dreadful stuff down at the bottom.

The bolts that mount the column to the bodywork are specially designed to shear in an accident, I don't think they "undo".

You photos don't show the adjusting levers, just the broken IGN lock.

hey guys - thanks for your replies.

Turns out that it looks like someone has broken the steering lock in a previous life - bending the steering column sleeves that allow for reach adjustment.

So she is seized up and non-adjustable - simple fix was a boss kit spacer to get some more reach!

H4x - I ended up drilling the damn things out! but I tried your method on the new barrel (as the bolts were still in there) and it worked a treat!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...