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decided to replace a map light globe. While changing it I blew the interior fuse - so no lights. Easy replace.

also stuck a drink holder in like Kats. Didn't like the look of the silver inserts so painted them black. Happier now :)

Well the car does excite hiM! LMAO

Fairly certain that on his Birth Certificate, it actually says his name is "Rigid". :rofl:

Reset ECU, it's as easy as everyone says. and instant improvement, seems to be more pokey down low =) Now to see if it's helped fuel economy........

It may, but a new O2 sensor will help more. (I got one from Vulture Motorsport on here.) Cheap and effective. :thumbsup:

will remember the long idle for next time =)

O2 sensor is about 15000 k old, so don't think it should be a problem, but also not going to be optimal.

Have been having overheating issue when sitting on above 110km/h.

Replaced rad cap, coolant, thermostat, both not in great condition, but problem still occurs.

laser temp across radiator showed a difference in the center of it by about 8 deg.. would this mean blockage and could be causing the issue?

when temp was taken car had only been idling for about 5 mins after doing thermo and coolant.

Can drive as hard as i want, only issue when sitting on over 110 for a few minutes..

Stock radiator? Could be full of gunk, at that speed, there should be plenty of air for cooling.

Still using the stock belt driven clutch fan or do you have electric fans?

yeah stock radiator and fan etc.

coolant seemed pretty clean when it came out. for what thats worth......

considering upgrading radiator, but not sure i want to spend $500 bucks just yet.

If i leave it a few months i will be in Adelaide, so no postage to deal with..

Is it worth replacing fan& shroud with the twin ones?

As far as I know, the stock Fan and shroud is the best cooling option. It just creates a bit of load on the engine and takes a little power away, which for normal use, is not an issue.

If you are trying to get every little bit of power out of your engine, then taking away that load might make a small difference. Might aswell get an electric water pump while your at it for the same reason.

I got a Brand new Aluminium Radiator off Ebay for $149 posted. (Autotechnica M-spec) and it works a treat and appears to be good quality.

The guys who installed it for me + new thermo and hoses, reckoned it was the best money I will ever spend on my car.

Shop around.

A radiator cooling panel may help also (and they pretty things a little. Bonus!) but NISSANs design should work in stock form unless there is a problem.

I was wondering about those $150 ebay ones.. just figured you get what you pay for, lol.

Intending on getting a cooling panel, 1 bit at a time though =)

cars mostly stock so not squeezing every little bit of power, prefer long term reliability for a daily driver.

I may have been lucky to get it (it was on clearance) and I haven't seen another one the same on Ebay (not that I look often) but 17 months and 19000 kms later, I haven't had a problem.

It was a perfect fit and uses the stock shroud plus it is a bit thicker core.

Edit* maybe yours needs a good ol' reverse flushing.

Keep the OEM fan/shroud.

Buy a new alloy radiator

Grab some liquid molly cooling system flush.

Follow the instructions and flush it with your existing radiator on (it works like a filter).

Put new radiator in :)

While your at it what is your oil temp like? Oil + water temps are related.

When I buy a car I like to put an engine flush and injector cleaner through it too. (again liquid molly brand). this brand does the best job.

Just to make certain there is no sludge. Injectors clean.

Cooling panels are pretty much all show. Minor benefit but covers up the stuff underneath nice and neatly from the eyes.

Edit: Have you checked your belts ?

2nd Edit: When flushing the cooling system remember heater on FULL

Belts are checked, all ok, all replaced 10000k ago or less.

Did injector cleaner when i bought it 4 months ago.

Oil temp. Is there a stock gauge for that? Not noticed any change in the oil gauge in the cluster.

any thoughts on this one? Is it worth spending 500 on a brand name 3 core? (remember mostly stock car, only planning to increase boost to about 9psi)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190700402072?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Cant find much on the autotecnica one, even their webpage doesnt give any info.

Sorry just had another thought. Check all temp sensors too. (ECT, IAT, EGR)

night all

Oil Temp gauge definitely. In the 32 it's in the triple gauge.

Should run about 90-95 when warmed and not under consistent high load (acceleration).

Measures from 70 to 150. Anyhting over 105-110 pull over :) and let it cool.

R33 has oil pressure but not Temp.

Mine sits on 95 on my cheap $15 ebay temp gauge.

There is a thread titled Ebay radiators. (maybe in forced induction or...)

Look it up and see what you can see.

Thanks Rob, found it ;) Think I'll go with an asi one.

I noticed in the thread you say you went with appropriate RED coolant. Do these require a different coolant to the normal Green one I currently use?

I know there a lot of variables with coolant now, and you cant just go by colour. Just need to know if I can use the same coolant or if I have to change?

Just about to order one when I get the address of my mates shop as they dont like to post to POBox...

Stick with the colour you have. (be it red or green)

DO NOT MIX colours is the only golden rule here.

If you do you will end up with a sludgy radiator and cooling system as they are made from different chemicals.

If you do wish to change types (clolour) then have it professionally pressure flushed first.

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