Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea, someone spotted a black 33 on the side of the parkway, I figured it would have been you.. not to many black 33 with chromies on... sorry to hear that man :(

Finally gearbox is in and everything bolted back to where it was. It was late so couldn't take it for a test drive. Big thanks to 5hiv and Eiji for helping out.

Thats what we are here for help each other out :)

now i need to fix mine slowly

SkyWagon Rego Re-inspect PASSED! :banana: (cost $14.40 for a guy to walk out, shine a torch thru a rear wheel and say yep) :blink:

Also Wheel alignment done. Toe out was way out on both sides. More than 2mm on drivers side and nearly 5mm on passengers side.

Belco Jane Bob.

  • Like 1

jacked the car up, about to drop the oil out, just making sure is Castrol edge titanium 0w-40 full synthetic all good to go in the 33? have a bottle left over form an oil chance on the fpv a couple of months ago

I wont be driving it to often, timing belt needs to be retention, will it be ok ? I have no idea when the last oil change was, it has a Japanese oil filter in it (imported in 05)

from everyone's comments its way to thin yea?

Edited by ..::R33GTS-T::..

I use... Ryco Z145A Oil Filter and Nulon 10w40 Synthetic oil. Nulon 20w50 in the Wags cooz it's old...

some say to go higher for Hot weather and Track. (as in 50 or 60)

yea I just got the z145a oil filter, I literally had the spanner on the sump plug, then thought I would double check... the only real how wether driving ill be doing in this sat... and no track days till I get my ps, it will be up for an oil change by then..

Nissan recommends 7.5w 30/40. Use 5w 40 or 10w 40, if its a shittier oil 10w 40, but if its like Motul etc you can probably get away with 5W 40. You need to examine your engine and see how much wear you have.Not all engines are the same. Check your compression and how much blow by you have to see what thickness of oil you should run. More blow by means your oil is too thin for your worn piston rings you will also get a lower compression reading. i use 10w 40 summer 5w 30 winter.

Started fixing my car and found out that the air con belt was smoking and i think the air con compressor is seized thats why when the engine tries to turn the compressor it smokes.

Edited by 5hiv

Have to change my fuel pump on the 33 me thinks..
Car seems to be chugging a lot and missfires these days.
Had a look over my notes and I haven't ever changed the fuel filter (last change was by dvs jez when the car was tuned)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...