Jump to content
SAU Community

Defected - Still Want Turbo Sound Though

hop1308

By hop1308,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, so I've got a R34 GT-T and i just got defected a little while ago for a bunch of things which ive fixed up. but i also got defected for having a pod filter that wasn't enclosed, apparently its a fire hazard or whatever..

anyways so ive put the old stock box back in and cleared all the defects and my car is good to go now. but the issue is i was just so used to driving a car that had some sort of blow off/turbo sound. now i dont hear a thing.

I dont want to just simply put the pod back on because any cop can see that and defect it easily.

is there anything i could do to get the turbo sound back? i was considering leaving the stock airbox there but not connected, and connecting the pod filter under somewhere and hiding it away, but that seems too much of a headache to do.

so yeah, pretty much i want the sound back but i want to be able to get away with it without being defect by most cops, i dont mind it being defectable, i just want it to be shifty or hidden or anything like that.

any ideas guys?

sadr33 Enthusiast

sadr33

Posted
Posted

The pod filter really makes the induction and associated blow of sounds much much louder and meatier. What you've been hearing so far. Theres not much you can do except for fitting an aftermarket BOV or adjusting your current one which will make the lift of pssstt sound, but you wont hear any extra noise otherwise.

You can fit a speaker system which mimicks the turbo. They have systems for both outside and inside the cabin noise. Do you want more do you want others to hear it? These are really dumb thought unless your doing it as a joke. Personally I would leave it the way it is now.

Got a Pulsar Grand Master

Got a Pulsar

Posted
Posted

I'm not sure if the 34 is the same as the 33 but, if there is a soft pillow thing in the lid of the airbox, pull it out.

You will hear a bit more turbo spool and maybe some more Bov. Do you have a factory Bov? They are pretty quiet.

Also a silicon intake pipe or better yet a metal intake pipe will change the sounds again.

I have done all of these and currently have No pillow, GTR Bov and a metal intake pipe made by scotty nm35.

Spool noise is there but Bov doesn't even really make the same noise as before. Due to Scotty's design, I actually get a little bit of flutter as the Bov releases straight into the turbo blades rather than the sidewall of the stock or silicon pipes.

I love it !!!

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

Why would'nt you just put the pod in an enclosure - keeps the sound and gets the cops off your back.

They come in carbon fibre

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=272&page=3

Or you can have them in a colour to suite your car

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=272&page=3

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=272&page=3

http://justjap.com/s...&cat=272&page=3

tripsteady Proficient

tripsteady

Posted
Posted

facing same problem.... its illegal to not have a pod filter enclosed but having one in itself is not illegal as far as I know

Just get an enclosure like the one suggested above...

or this one which is cheaper....

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251195349599?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Im going to fit a blitz turnflow intercooler this friday

does anyone know if any mods will need to be made to the above enclosures to attach this to cover the pod?

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
  • Author
Posted

seems like making a box for it is the best way to go. however, i remember the cop told me that the box must enclose the pod completely, that is from underneath, ontop and the sides with only one hole for the air to leave.

so the pod covers linked above would still be defectable then im guessing?

it seems like they just want the stock airbox look but with a pod filter inside it..

cherring Proficient

cherring

Posted
Posted

Stock airbox, hiflow panel fitler, metal intake pipe. That will give you loud induction sound. The BOV sound is reduced, I don't really notice it at all unless I was am accelerating hard on full boost, but that doesn't worry me too much.

tripsteady Proficient

tripsteady

Posted
Posted

seems like making a box for it is the best way to go. however, i remember the cop told me that the box must enclose the pod completely, that is from underneath, ontop and the sides with only one hole for the air to leave.

so the pod covers linked above would still be defectable then im guessing?

it seems like they just want the stock airbox look but with a pod filter inside it..

can anyone confirm this? trying to make my car as non defectable as possible but really dont want to give up the bov sound

hop1308 Collaborator

hop1308

Posted
  • Author
Posted

can anyone confirm this? trying to make my car as non defectable as possible but really dont want to give up the bov sound

ill confirm it for you, im 100% on this, i looked into it a fair bit. it has to be completely enclosed to avoid a fire hazard because the pod filter is made of paper after all. to avoid the paper catching on fire it needs to be completely enclosed.

i really dont get the point of those half assed covers on justjap and ebay that only cover the top of it.

so does this mean if you have the stock air setup with a metal intake pipe, the induction sound will remain?

fcukinky Community Regular

fcukinky

Posted
Posted

I had a look a while back and could not find a metal intake Pipe for a GTT that will connect to a stock airbox, all the ones I found were for POD filters.. Might have another look around maybe someone had made one now..

cherring Proficient

cherring

Posted
Posted

What got done for me was just a straight piece of pipe with the ends still silicone joiner, like http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-HNR32-HCR32-GTS-RB20DET-TURBO-SILICONE-INTAKE-INDUCTION-HOSE-/251199737738?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7cabcf8a&_uhb=1#ht_1660wt_923 , basically just using the curve at the top and the intakes for the BOV and the oil breather hole section to connect onto the front of the turbo.

By using the bare minimum we were able to get a metal intake that won't suck shut and just enough silicone to connect up to the stock airbox, so far it's been fine even after the new tune that is 242rwkw. Sometimes just gotta think about a slightly less obvious solution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...