Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it revs past 2500 rpm.. but good chance the replacment was a dud to.

so frustrating

nah mate if it goes past its working... could have dry joints on the solder inside causing it to cut the signal when you hit a bump.

i just spoke to the old owner and he said the car has a fuel cut defender making the car capable (not safe) of 13.5psi which is what it had goin threw it and it ran fine!

i am thinkin a might have nudged a wire or something when i was changin the exuast gasket... sound like a likely possabilty??

hmmmmm...

first of all. locate that FCD take it out, rewire the loom back to standard. then kill the fcd with fire.

wind your boost down to under 10 psi after that and see what its like.

give the engine a f**king huge service. fuel filter air filter oil filter upper engine cleaner etc, check your tps voltage clean your iac valve then reset your ecu again.

that should take you about a day working easy with beers. even if none of that is the issue, when you find the issue your engine will run shit loads better.

okay so its definatly not the fuel cut defender! put the emanage ecu back in and it idles okay but now it sounds like a WRX and still sounds like the air is leaking some where from the left hand side...

soapy water on hoses should sho up leaks.... not to much tho and watch electrical....

do you not have a stock ecu to put in?

if it sounds like a wrk its missfiring... check coil packs and harness.

i never said the FCD was causing your problems but it willllll. throw it or sell it. you wont need one after you have the emanage tuned.

haha f**k this man, so now its missfiring and not boosting properly...

ive checked and checked for leaks i was thinking maybe theres a crack in the intercooler??

The ecu is stock witha piggy back e-manage.

it seems to be holding idle now and doesnt want to stall when you come to a stop.

would it be throwing out error codes??

all the issues i had with mine it never threw a code......

unplug your piggy back, run on standard ecu, reset it. dial boost to just under 10. put 98 octane fuel in. see how it runs. get it right on stock parts then add one upgrade at a time to see what is causing the issue. if you put it back to stock and its still doing it, then you know its not those parts and you can figure out what its doing.

also if that emanage has a tune loaded on it and you dont have the right mods etc you could do some serious damage!

its been tuned with the emanage capable of 13.5 psi, But yeah this will be the third time ive strated from scracth

i guess that what ya get when ya buy someone els car ( no knowing exactly what hasn been done or any problems its had)

I said to this missus last night i was ganna sell it and get a 4 banga haha :verymad:

Was about to say check the pipe between the AFM and turbo inlet - also check the plumbing of the BOV return pipe that joins before the turbo.

BTW - don't take advice from random people about turbo cars. SAU is the best source of info for for RB engines.

  • 1 month later...

My only question after reading this is....

Why the hell would you run 18psi when you've got an emanage which is tuned for 13.5psi... That's just asking your engine to lean out and destroy itself! Especially for a track day when you're going to be Wide Open Throttle all the time...

Yeah, normally people turn the boost DOWN for a track day. You don't need the power on the track, it's better to have moderate power and concentrate on being smooth and taking good lines. An extra 20-30hp at the wheels isn't going to make a huge difference if you are a nooby.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...