Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have bought a $30 adjustable boost controller off eBay.

Iv hooked that t peice that comes in the kit between the acutator and the intake vac hose.

With the middle nipple on the tee iv ran it to the boost controller.

The boost controller has just taken the solenoids spot.

Iv turned the boost controller to negative side and I'm still getting rediculas boost results.

Iv swapped a few hoses around and the boost is still amazingly high?

Any help will do thanks alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415964-boost-controller-issues/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

If u can't figure out a simple thing like a f@&kin boost controller u shouldn't own a turbo car! Sell it and buy a holden

Maybe you should buy a holden since your mental capacity is on par with the stereotypical bogan driver.

Anyway, on topic, throw up some pics as this would help a lot.

If u can't figure out a simple thing like a f@&kin boost controller u shouldn't own a turbo car! Sell it and buy a holden

Never ask you for help.

Didnt expect this from a volvo driver. Take a chill pill bro.

OP, pics are your friend here.

+1

The bloke is just asking for help u f**king dickwad.

+1

Maybe you should buy a holden since your mental capacity is on par with the stereotypical bogan driver.

Anyway, on topic, throw up some pics as this would help a lot.

+1

I have bought a $30 adjustable boost controller off eBay.

Iv hooked that t peice that comes in the kit between the acutator and the intake vac hose.

With the middle nipple on the tee iv ran it to the boost controller.

The boost controller has just taken the solenoids spot.

Iv turned the boost controller to negative side and I'm still getting rediculas boost results.

Iv swapped a few hoses around and the boost is still amazingly high?

Any help will do thanks alex

more info would def help here however you generally have to wind them all the way shut (off) then adjust from there. Depending on the brand/type can be a slight turn of 4 turns to get a single PSI increase

If u can't figure out a simple thing like a f@&kin boost controller u shouldn't own a turbo car! Sell it and buy a holden

Wow, with a comment like that you must have a really big cock, cause that's what you now look like f*ckface!

From what I'm reading, sounds like you've hooked it up wrong. The stock boost controller (assuming you have a GTS-t) actually bleeds back pressure between the pressure hose to the actuator.

What you need to do is remove that OEM t piece and fit your controller between that hose as per the diagram above. then block off the hose going into the intake.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...