Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is a printout of my last suspension check from pedders...pretty sure he just set everything for general usage..which is all it gets with the occasional track day

I dont really have any adjustable stuff other than toe..I have some adjustablke fornt castor bushges but never installed them...it Just has a set of bilstein shocks/springs , it sits fairly low at the front especially..

does everything else look ok or does it look seriously out of whack??

I mean there is a degree of camber missing at the front left and a few opther thigns slightly out but I assume not enough to make a difference..i

any thing I should look into..??

r33001_zps64a4026b.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415996-opinions-on-settings/
Share on other sites

Camber is 1 degree out, and its on the left front so you might notice the car pulling slightly to that side. You have a heap of caster (which is good).

Other then that there's no specified values for toe so who knows if its out or not, it will normally tell you the range for that specific car.

If its not scrubbing tyres or pulling I'd say leave the car as is, if you want it set up for track maybe get a proper alignment done at a recomended place, just be carefull where you go, you would be very surprised how many wheel alignment places dont know wtf they are doing.

Too much front camber for a road driven car. You'll get away with 1.5deg on the front and even out tire wear.

Front toe is okay

Rear camber is okay rear toe is neutral and probably toeing out dynamically when driving down the road.

Get the rear toed in 1mm each side and gain some straight line stability and predictability in the rear end

it was mostly just a check after a bingle to make sure it was all true but im pretty sure adjustments were made as well

.

the camber wear isnt a concern as It only does a few thousand kms a year.. happy to have it set for performance as long as its still comfortable to street

I think the front castor came from fitment of lower control arm bushes, I have adjustable castor rod bushes as well but not installed yet

rear toe is something I thought was usually set a degree or so inwards too so may get that done

It drives straight as an arrow so no concerns there either...Im just thinking just a set of sway bars and i will leave it as is...

:cheers:

Camber is 1 degree out, and its on the left front so you might notice the car pulling slightly to that side. You have a heap of caster (which is good).

However the caster split favour the LHS and caster has more effect on a left/right "pull" then camber thus Artz's car drives reasonably straight.

Chuck some bars on it old man ;)

i forgot your a suspension guru Hank..

it seems to handle pretty well, i throw it into corners often when I think im going to fast and it always holds on..R comps tyres do help somwhat I guess..it only squirrels around when they get hot

How much was it for the check? Do you just ask for a basic suspension setup check?

Would have just been a wheel alignment

Edited by Hank Scorpio

Was Initially a suspension safety check...i then replaced front ball joints, tie rodz and lca bushes and with driftworks bushes.. Followed by a full alignment...

Seems settings are ok and it drives try so I won't worry...

Some extra toe at rear and swaybars should make it a little more stable..then i need a diff :/

What size sways work best on the r33?

24mm adjustable on the front, plus a 22 or 24 adjustable on the rear. If you prefer a more oversteery behaviour (or more to the point, if you absolutely loathe understeer) then the bigger rear bar is the choice. If you set the front bar to max stiff and rear bar to min stiff, the balance is still OK. If you put a 22mm rear on, then you probably won't want to go to max stiff on the front.

BUT......all the above is somewhat dependent on what spring rates you have.

i forgot your a suspension guru Hank..

it seems to handle pretty well, i throw it into corners often when I think im going to fast and it always holds on..R comps tyres do help somwhat I guess..it only squirrels around when they get hot

30km/h is not fast artz.

youve gone to the point of r compound tyres, why not some china crap adjustable arms?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...