Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is a printout of my last suspension check from pedders...pretty sure he just set everything for general usage..which is all it gets with the occasional track day

I dont really have any adjustable stuff other than toe..I have some adjustablke fornt castor bushges but never installed them...it Just has a set of bilstein shocks/springs , it sits fairly low at the front especially..

does everything else look ok or does it look seriously out of whack??

I mean there is a degree of camber missing at the front left and a few opther thigns slightly out but I assume not enough to make a difference..i

any thing I should look into..??

r33001_zps64a4026b.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/415996-opinions-on-settings/
Share on other sites

Camber is 1 degree out, and its on the left front so you might notice the car pulling slightly to that side. You have a heap of caster (which is good).

Other then that there's no specified values for toe so who knows if its out or not, it will normally tell you the range for that specific car.

If its not scrubbing tyres or pulling I'd say leave the car as is, if you want it set up for track maybe get a proper alignment done at a recomended place, just be carefull where you go, you would be very surprised how many wheel alignment places dont know wtf they are doing.

Too much front camber for a road driven car. You'll get away with 1.5deg on the front and even out tire wear.

Front toe is okay

Rear camber is okay rear toe is neutral and probably toeing out dynamically when driving down the road.

Get the rear toed in 1mm each side and gain some straight line stability and predictability in the rear end

it was mostly just a check after a bingle to make sure it was all true but im pretty sure adjustments were made as well

.

the camber wear isnt a concern as It only does a few thousand kms a year.. happy to have it set for performance as long as its still comfortable to street

I think the front castor came from fitment of lower control arm bushes, I have adjustable castor rod bushes as well but not installed yet

rear toe is something I thought was usually set a degree or so inwards too so may get that done

It drives straight as an arrow so no concerns there either...Im just thinking just a set of sway bars and i will leave it as is...

:cheers:

Camber is 1 degree out, and its on the left front so you might notice the car pulling slightly to that side. You have a heap of caster (which is good).

However the caster split favour the LHS and caster has more effect on a left/right "pull" then camber thus Artz's car drives reasonably straight.

Chuck some bars on it old man ;)

i forgot your a suspension guru Hank..

it seems to handle pretty well, i throw it into corners often when I think im going to fast and it always holds on..R comps tyres do help somwhat I guess..it only squirrels around when they get hot

How much was it for the check? Do you just ask for a basic suspension setup check?

Would have just been a wheel alignment

Edited by Hank Scorpio

Was Initially a suspension safety check...i then replaced front ball joints, tie rodz and lca bushes and with driftworks bushes.. Followed by a full alignment...

Seems settings are ok and it drives try so I won't worry...

Some extra toe at rear and swaybars should make it a little more stable..then i need a diff :/

What size sways work best on the r33?

24mm adjustable on the front, plus a 22 or 24 adjustable on the rear. If you prefer a more oversteery behaviour (or more to the point, if you absolutely loathe understeer) then the bigger rear bar is the choice. If you set the front bar to max stiff and rear bar to min stiff, the balance is still OK. If you put a 22mm rear on, then you probably won't want to go to max stiff on the front.

BUT......all the above is somewhat dependent on what spring rates you have.

i forgot your a suspension guru Hank..

it seems to handle pretty well, i throw it into corners often when I think im going to fast and it always holds on..R comps tyres do help somwhat I guess..it only squirrels around when they get hot

30km/h is not fast artz.

youve gone to the point of r compound tyres, why not some china crap adjustable arms?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...