Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been a while since I've been in here Ants. Must say im loving your work with the panels. Its all coming together nicely. One day soon we might even see it driving around :P

Thanks Scottie.

You will see it very soon mate.

Today job.

Paint the rear of the car

Always prep work first

post-5053-13960814141614_thumb.jpgLHS tail lights masked and covered

post-5053-13960814520188_thumb.jpg

RHS tail lights masked and covered

Make sure you also masked the holes from the inside of the boot (the holes for the rear bumper)

post-5053-1396081874135_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13960819257671_thumb.jpg

Then just tape and cover the rest of the rear body so no paint gets there.

I made sure the exhaust was well covered from any overspray too ;)

Then just get the right paint (again I used this post-5053-13960821673431_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13960821944363_thumb.jpg

While I was at it I also gave the rear reo bar a respray after I had cleaned it and lightly sanded it

Before

post-5053-13960834526486_thumb.jpg

After

post-5053-13960834819907_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13960835048321_thumb.jpg

And then bolt it back on the car

post-5053-1396083597093_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13960836089337_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13960836203817_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13960836311848_thumb.jpg

That's it for now folks

Will get the rear bumper resprayed then go time ;)

Thanks Scottie.

Will be getting a lot more done too :woot:

I received this today

post-5053-13964950428264_thumb.jpg

The black wrapped box contains

post-5053-13964951570892_thumb.jpg

Brand new OEM LHS indicator as my current one was over torqued and the mount was snapped like so

post-5053-13964952283818_thumb.jpg

post-5053-13964952411943_thumb.jpg

Will look nicer after I install some LEDs in too ;)

  • Like 1

Do you flat and polish your panels after you've painted them Ants? It is a bit of extra work, but I find when using rattle cans it is essential to getting a really high quality finish. Not too necessary with white, but still makes it look a lot better.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...