Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have a had a set of 34 GTR wheels that are waiting to be put on my 34GTT

I think if memory serves, the wheels are 18x9 +30?

I'm looking at getting a really decent set of tyres, possibly something like the pirelli p zero's or equivalent.

All I'm really after is just to get the correct tyres for the rims and my car.

I have been looking for sometime at getting 265/35/18's all round, but after a bit of googling, it looks like they would be fine for the rear, but would need a different fitment for the front?

If you guys could offer a bit of assistance with my situation, that'd be great.

Cheers,

Jacob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/
Share on other sites

245s would be ideal

Damo, what are you doing mate? Bad advice is bad.

What tyre profile would you run on an R34 GT-T with a 245 section width? 245/35 is too short and 245/40 too tall. If you really want something fat on the back run 225/40R18 on the front and 255/35R18 on the rear, otherwise a good quality 225/40R18 will be up to the job on a Skyline without ridiculous power.

OP also stated that he is looking at getting decent tyres, if he opts for a Toyo Proxes R1R (which I can't reccomend enough), Yoki Advan AD08 or similar these will have a wide contact patch for their respective sizes i.e a 255/35R18 R1R is usually as wide as a mid-range 265/35R18.

Edited by Hank Scorpio
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6681743
Share on other sites

255's look nice and beafy at the rear, especially with the +30 offset. Keep with 225's or 235's at the front I reckon, you don't want too much resistance when turning your wheel, it can get annoying! My ones are 40 at the front and 35's at the rear, 18's all round, they fit nice and snug

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6684662
Share on other sites

Either 225 40 18( will give it a slight stretch) or 235 40 18( better suited for performance)

And a 245 40 18 or 255 35 18 rear. Both will work nice on the rear on the 9". 265 rear you would want a 235 40 18 front.

And yes going too wide on the front will cause tram lining which does get VERY annoying!

Depends on what tyres you are looking to fit on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6686267
Share on other sites

I agree with Ali.

225/40/18 on the front, and a 255/35-40/18 on the rear.

For tyre selection, it comes down to the way you drive. Do you track it often? Do you daily it? Is it a weekend only car? Do you carry big loads? Would you prefer grip or longevity? How much did you want to spend?

There is a lot of factors to take into consideration when picking he right tyre for YOU, not just the right tyre in general.

Cheers,

Shazza

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/416198-tyres-for-my-34/#findComment-6686281
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...