Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

- What i was told before by other members is cutting wire #53 over extended period is not very good for the HICAS system, also may cause some aftermarket products like AVC-R not functioning properly,

also some turbo timers which uses speed sensors to determine countdown timer.

This is why the Japanese manufacturers made Trust / HKS speed cut thing,

otherwise why bother?.

- Don't think you need fuel cut defender, fuel cut is usually related to overboosting,

don't think it related to over 180kph, so speed cut defender alone should be fine.

whether the full blown RSM GP or a simple trust/hks unit should do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41661-r33-speed-limiter/#findComment-914115
Share on other sites

i have an r33 gtst with the speed cut taken off, was already off when i got it. not sure how its been removed but it has been. i have an rsm gp also and apexi auto timer. all work fine and hicas works fine too, has for the last year and a bit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41661-r33-speed-limiter/#findComment-914193
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...