Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this thread makes my head hurt.

OP, you're approaching this from entirely the wrong angle.

You choose the wheels first and then the width of those wheels dictates the width of the tyre you run. The profile you run isn't a choice, it's a mathematic result that you have to follow in order to keep your VDC and speedo in check.

To say you're researching to buy wheels based on which tyre size is most readily available and well priced is a waste of time. I understand you want to buy a nice grippy tyre, but seriously, at your budget of $1000 your only option will be second hand wheels with tyres fitted, and they'll be 18's at best.

My advice, save another $1k - and then make the decision between buying something new but replica like varrstoen's or rota's and then spend 800 on tyres - or buying something jap brand, second hand with used tyres (of which you'll have no choice in anyway) and then buy better tyres when you can afford it. You'll be much happier.

Very rarely does a truly pleasing outcome result from compromise. And at $1000 budget, compromise is all you can afford. (don't mean to sound harsh, but seriously, 4 good 18" tyres are going to cost you close to $1000 as it is.)

Thanks SmokeyC34. This thread however, is not about me persay. Its a general question aimed to get some direction for newbies to the modding world.

Knowledge can't replace experience.. and that's what I'm looking for, advice from the experienced.

Don't get me wrong. Thanks for all the comments guys. Its been good.. but.. I'll like to keep it away from my situation.. (don't link the threads)

I know the budget of $1000 is a laugh, I came up with the amount for 2 reasons.. one.. I was asked many times what my budget was and two, found a couple of ebay post for 18" OEM Infinity wheels for that much or less... so I thought, lets throw this hypothetical amount into the discussion and see what comes up. Of course.. the tyres on those sets was either balding or cheapies... which I still think would be better than the cheapies on my 20"s..

I'm trying to achieve, one thing. What's the best tyre/wheel combination .. vs common size tyres for the best bang for the buck.

I'm taking the analytical approach to researching this topic! Lol! No.. I'm not an analyst!

If everyone agrees with your comment "To say you're researching to buy wheels based on which tyre size is most readily available and well priced is a waste of time" ... I'll go with your advice.

sigh. I still don't understand the point of your question - but i'll answer it anyway.

ok - stick with 18's.

buy in 8 inch widths, then you can buy 245/45/18 which is what commodores run - so plenty of tyres available domestically.

(incidentally this would net you pretty close to the exact same setup as the OEM 18s (18x7.5 18x8).)

So why don't you snag a set of OEM's - get them powdercoated black or gunmetal grey - throw some stick rubber on them and you'll have a tidy setup for under $1500.

OEM wheels pretty much cannot be beat. They're cheap, they're easy to come by, and they're strong as all hell. They fit without fouling anything, they're legal under all insurance policies, and the car was designed to work with them.

100484d1231899599-fs-oem-18-g35-coupe-wheels-flat-black-dsc00803.jpg

Edited by SMOKEYC34

sigh. I still don't understand the point of your question - but i'll answer it anyway.

ok - stick with 18's.

buy in 8 inch widths, then you can buy 245/45/18 which is what commodores run - so plenty of tyres available domestically.

I think this ^ answer was what the OP was after.

If wheel 'fashion' is not at the top of your priority list, then buying rims that run a more common tyre (hence better choice & price) is a smart thing to do. Unless you are a wheel whore, you will always buy more tyres than rims, & I've never seen a rim that adds more to handing & ride then a well chosen tyre.

Slightly off topic, but does anyone have a ballpark figure on powder-coating a set of 4 rims? and also, another strange question, do they / can they powder-coat the inside (ie where the tyre covers) as well?

No idea about powder coating cost but I painted my 18" OEMs just before Xmas - used the same silver colour as the car but darkened it a bit, 3 coats of paint & 3 coats of clear. I had the outside beads broken so it was easier to mask up, cleaned with wax & grease remover, sanded out most of the scratches & filled the bigger ones with body filler, then painted. Total cost was SFA, but we already had the paint & clear coat. You can buy wheel paint & clear in rattle cans as well. They came up fine - probably not quite as nice as powder coating but "they're just rims".

Thanks Mat. Your idea about power coating the OEMs is brilliant! I might do that! I think for short term .. I might go back to my OEM 17's for the time being.. Bucketing down in Sydney yesterday.. Went into a roundabout slowly ! Yes Slowly with family onboard and my front tyres lost grip, understeered but got it back.. but not comfortable with it. Did it 2x! Tyres tyres tyres..

powdercoat (approx $100 per rim), paint yourself (maybe $100 in materials and a weekend), or even cheaper/easier would be to plastidip the (probably need 6 cans - so $160 in materials)

If you're not up with Plastidip, it's a rubberised paint that you spray on and it sets as a bonded layer over your rims (in this case) - but they beauty is you can just peel it off if you don't like it after a while!

http://www.plastidip.net.au

So depending on your choise, that's approx $200 to bring your rims up to scratch which leaves uou $800 for tyres which will get you some pretty nice tyres in 17 inch size.

Something like these would be nice:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-New-235-45-17-BRIDGESTONE-POTENZA-ADRENLIN-RE002-TYRES-/290841551679?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b781e33f

or for something a bit more agressive, could give the nitto's a go (don't expect them to last forever though, treadwear is something like 200 - meaning they're sticky, but soft)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-New-235-45-17-NITTO-INVO-PERFORMANCE-TYRES-HOLDEN-FORD-NISSAN-GTR-MERCEDES-/230909264927?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c343c41f

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...