Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

this thread makes my head hurt.

OP, you're approaching this from entirely the wrong angle.

You choose the wheels first and then the width of those wheels dictates the width of the tyre you run. The profile you run isn't a choice, it's a mathematic result that you have to follow in order to keep your VDC and speedo in check.

To say you're researching to buy wheels based on which tyre size is most readily available and well priced is a waste of time. I understand you want to buy a nice grippy tyre, but seriously, at your budget of $1000 your only option will be second hand wheels with tyres fitted, and they'll be 18's at best.

My advice, save another $1k - and then make the decision between buying something new but replica like varrstoen's or rota's and then spend 800 on tyres - or buying something jap brand, second hand with used tyres (of which you'll have no choice in anyway) and then buy better tyres when you can afford it. You'll be much happier.

Very rarely does a truly pleasing outcome result from compromise. And at $1000 budget, compromise is all you can afford. (don't mean to sound harsh, but seriously, 4 good 18" tyres are going to cost you close to $1000 as it is.)

Thanks SmokeyC34. This thread however, is not about me persay. Its a general question aimed to get some direction for newbies to the modding world.

Knowledge can't replace experience.. and that's what I'm looking for, advice from the experienced.

Don't get me wrong. Thanks for all the comments guys. Its been good.. but.. I'll like to keep it away from my situation.. (don't link the threads)

I know the budget of $1000 is a laugh, I came up with the amount for 2 reasons.. one.. I was asked many times what my budget was and two, found a couple of ebay post for 18" OEM Infinity wheels for that much or less... so I thought, lets throw this hypothetical amount into the discussion and see what comes up. Of course.. the tyres on those sets was either balding or cheapies... which I still think would be better than the cheapies on my 20"s..

I'm trying to achieve, one thing. What's the best tyre/wheel combination .. vs common size tyres for the best bang for the buck.

I'm taking the analytical approach to researching this topic! Lol! No.. I'm not an analyst!

If everyone agrees with your comment "To say you're researching to buy wheels based on which tyre size is most readily available and well priced is a waste of time" ... I'll go with your advice.

sigh. I still don't understand the point of your question - but i'll answer it anyway.

ok - stick with 18's.

buy in 8 inch widths, then you can buy 245/45/18 which is what commodores run - so plenty of tyres available domestically.

(incidentally this would net you pretty close to the exact same setup as the OEM 18s (18x7.5 18x8).)

So why don't you snag a set of OEM's - get them powdercoated black or gunmetal grey - throw some stick rubber on them and you'll have a tidy setup for under $1500.

OEM wheels pretty much cannot be beat. They're cheap, they're easy to come by, and they're strong as all hell. They fit without fouling anything, they're legal under all insurance policies, and the car was designed to work with them.

100484d1231899599-fs-oem-18-g35-coupe-wheels-flat-black-dsc00803.jpg

Edited by SMOKEYC34

sigh. I still don't understand the point of your question - but i'll answer it anyway.

ok - stick with 18's.

buy in 8 inch widths, then you can buy 245/45/18 which is what commodores run - so plenty of tyres available domestically.

I think this ^ answer was what the OP was after.

If wheel 'fashion' is not at the top of your priority list, then buying rims that run a more common tyre (hence better choice & price) is a smart thing to do. Unless you are a wheel whore, you will always buy more tyres than rims, & I've never seen a rim that adds more to handing & ride then a well chosen tyre.

Slightly off topic, but does anyone have a ballpark figure on powder-coating a set of 4 rims? and also, another strange question, do they / can they powder-coat the inside (ie where the tyre covers) as well?

No idea about powder coating cost but I painted my 18" OEMs just before Xmas - used the same silver colour as the car but darkened it a bit, 3 coats of paint & 3 coats of clear. I had the outside beads broken so it was easier to mask up, cleaned with wax & grease remover, sanded out most of the scratches & filled the bigger ones with body filler, then painted. Total cost was SFA, but we already had the paint & clear coat. You can buy wheel paint & clear in rattle cans as well. They came up fine - probably not quite as nice as powder coating but "they're just rims".

Thanks Mat. Your idea about power coating the OEMs is brilliant! I might do that! I think for short term .. I might go back to my OEM 17's for the time being.. Bucketing down in Sydney yesterday.. Went into a roundabout slowly ! Yes Slowly with family onboard and my front tyres lost grip, understeered but got it back.. but not comfortable with it. Did it 2x! Tyres tyres tyres..

powdercoat (approx $100 per rim), paint yourself (maybe $100 in materials and a weekend), or even cheaper/easier would be to plastidip the (probably need 6 cans - so $160 in materials)

If you're not up with Plastidip, it's a rubberised paint that you spray on and it sets as a bonded layer over your rims (in this case) - but they beauty is you can just peel it off if you don't like it after a while!

http://www.plastidip.net.au

So depending on your choise, that's approx $200 to bring your rims up to scratch which leaves uou $800 for tyres which will get you some pretty nice tyres in 17 inch size.

Something like these would be nice:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-New-235-45-17-BRIDGESTONE-POTENZA-ADRENLIN-RE002-TYRES-/290841551679?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b781e33f

or for something a bit more agressive, could give the nitto's a go (don't expect them to last forever though, treadwear is something like 200 - meaning they're sticky, but soft)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-X-New-235-45-17-NITTO-INVO-PERFORMANCE-TYRES-HOLDEN-FORD-NISSAN-GTR-MERCEDES-/230909264927?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c343c41f

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...