Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi headlight guru.

I am looking to do this to my r32 gtst skyline later on during the year and was wondering if I could ask you a few questions.

Would i get the same stuff or would I need some specific items?

I want to make it dual high beam and low beam if possible.

also would getting the kit from that website be better?

any help or recommendations is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I'm doing the retrofit to my R32 lights. I am assuming you have projectors lights (which most R32s have).

Get the FX-R projectors (RHS, 3" lens) from TRS. They go on with not much effort, don't need to make brackets up. Just need to tap one existing hole and drill + tap another, and they go straight onto the adjusters. Also order a pair of AMP > D2S straight adaptors (this). Yes you can find ones in China for $5 but you have to wait 1 month for them to come, whereas the TRS stuff usually turns up within two weeks.

Get D2S HID kit, like this one. 4300K temperature is best. I found that recently, the cheap HID 4300K bulbs aren't 4300K but more yellow. Good to invest in something better I suppose. I will find out very soon if the bulbs in that kit are good.

For dual high beam, I wired up an 'anti-flasher' relay wiring for the headlights using three relays and diodes. It allows you to flash high beams while still retaining the lowbeam (so essentially they act as two separate circuits, so the lows don't turn off when you high beam). Might be a bit more complicated approach, but then you can always use something from TRS.

Butyl rubber glue stuff you can source locally.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm doing the retrofit to my R32 lights. I am assuming you have projectors lights (which most R32s have).

Get the FX-R projectors (RHS, 3" lens) from TRS. They go on with not much effort, don't need to make brackets up. Just need to tap one existing hole and drill + tap another, and they go straight onto the adjusters. Also order a pair of AMP > D2S straight adaptors (this). Yes you can find ones in China for $5 but you have to wait 1+ month for them to come, whereas the TRS stuff usually turns up within two weeks.

Get a D2S HID kit. 4300K temperature is best, although I found that the cheap HID 4300K bulbs are more yellow. Good to invest in something better I suppose. Get 'F3 Start Bright' ballasts and your choice of bulb in 5,000K. Don't bother with 4,300K unless it's Philips/Osram). Don't bother with 'Hyluxtek' as I did back-to-back testing and the F3 Start Bright ones are a lot better and not noisy.

For dual high beam, I wired up an 'anti-flasher' relay wiring for the headlights using three relays and diodes. It allows you to flash high beams while still retaining the lowbeam (so essentially they act as two separate circuits, so the lows don't turn off when you high beam). Might be a bit more complicated approach, but then you can always use something from TRS.

Butyl rubber glue stuff you can source locally.

Whoops stuffed the edit up. Ignore my previous posts. Don't bother with the HID kit I listed, get F3 Fast Bright kit and optionally a better bulb.

Edited by niZmO_Man

Whoops stuffed the edit up. Ignore my previous posts. Don't bother with the HID kit I listed, get F3 Fast Bright kit and optionally a better bulb.

Hi Nizmo man,

Thank you so much for the very informative information. I will definitely be doing this very soon.

Did you find the 5000k HID kit bulb a bit too yellow or just right?

Also, I might get something from TRS for the dual high beam

Thanks heaps once again.

Hi Nizmo man,

Thank you so much for the very informative information. I will definitely be doing this very soon.

Did you find the 5000k HID kit bulb a bit too yellow or just right?

Also, I might get something from TRS for the dual high beam

Thanks heaps once again.

5000k HID isn't going to be yellow at all. If anything it will be a bit blue. 4000k is white, anything above starts going blue, then 10k starts going purple.

6000k is my preference for light output vs aesthetics.

5000K will be white white, as seen on Merc S-class cars.

Whether 4300K is white enough is personal preference... And your parker lights lol.

I haven't used 5000K as of yet. I always get 4300K, but I got a pair of 6000K from Mars performance in my R31. I find then a tad too blue for my liking. I think 5000K is good for looks vs. light, but as stated 4300K is best (daylight) if you want to actually see. The Mars performance bulb is actually very good. Back to back testing they easily surpass the el cheapo bulbs and even the TRS ones.

I'm currently tracking down a pair of 5000K, so will provide some pictures once I do find some.

  • 2 weeks later...

Surprise surprise, projectors makes a difference after all! 4300K is white and I'm very happy with them. I'm not going to bother with 5000K bulbs.

Ordered a pair of Philips 85122+ bulbs, lets see the difference compared to the Chinese stuff.

  • 4 months later...

Very interested I can your results

Sorry man, forgot about this thread.

The Philips bulb is a bit yellow-er (probably 4200K) but they apparently colour shift as they get older. The output is no different but the spread is better (e.g. cutoff is cleaner).

But cant you just change to a phillips d2r 6000k bulb but use the same ballast? Or doesnt work that way? So would you recommend phillip or bosch? I cant seem to find it online :( can anyone link me please? xD

Edited by Wongy

You can always throw a cheapie HID kit and it will get you going/will keep you happy.

Guessing you want something like this:

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=147

Doesn't have to be Bosch or Philips.

I'm sure someone with R34 factory HID lights can tell you what ballasts it has.

  • 3 weeks later...

I think I found the stock ballast, quick question, if I need to put the d2r adapter on will I need to take off front bumper to acess the ballasts under the headlights? Or can I access it by taking off the washer bottle and the intake on the other side, thanks guys :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...