Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just this week noticed that when my R33 GTS-T hits boost (only 10 psi) at around 3000rpm in 4th or 5th gear (under moderate to heavy throttle) that the revs initially rise quickly (without as much thrust!) and then dip slightly before continuing to boost OK...

Could this be the clutch slipping???

It feels a lot like it, but I've only ever blown clutches (admittedly in FWD cars) in lower gears and usually when revs are high!!!

Is it the torque that causes the clutch to slip??? It doesn't slip and dip in any lower gears!!!

Could it be a boost pressure issue??? I have a basic bleed valve installed. I can't think why this would cause this but I'm certainly no mechanic!!!

IDEAS??? I already did some searches and came up empty!!!

Ta!

iijj

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41766-clutch-in-4th-and-5th/
Share on other sites

I have just this week noticed that when my R33 GTS-T hits boost (only 10 psi) at around 3000rpm in 4th or 5th gear (under moderate to heavy throttle) that the revs initially rise quickly (without as much thrust!) and then dip slightly before continuing to boost OK...  

Could this be the clutch slipping???

It feels a lot like it, but I've only ever blown clutches (admittedly in FWD cars) in lower gears and usually when revs are high!!!

Is it the torque that causes the clutch to slip???  It doesn't slip and dip in any lower gears!!!

Could it be a boost pressure issue???  I have a basic bleed valve installed.  I can't think why this would cause this but I'm certainly no mechanic!!!

IDEAS???  I already did some searches and came up empty!!!

Ta!

iijj

I think u need a new clutch. Ur case is just like wat had happened to me before. Starts to slip only at high speed (4th n 5th gear).

Bummmmmmmer........

So, anyone know a decent place to price a clutch up here in Brissie???

I don't think I can afford a heavy duty clutch if they're $900 fitted!!!

How much do the standard clutches go for, including fitting, and ...

where should I get one???

I hardly ever drop the clutch in first, but I don't want it to blow again inside a couple of years either. Would I be better with a heavy duty item??? I'm only producing around 140KW atw...

Suggestions...

iijj

PS Hey, how long, if I nurse it somewhat, until it will give up altogether???

Iijj , quote for me was 350 for standard clutch and 550 for heavy duty. twin plates go up and up from there... i plan on making more than 200RWKW so a heavy duty is rated to the 300 rwkw range. If i wanted to make over 300 RWKW (read many $$$$$) I'd have gone for a twin or Triple plate item.

Personally get the best you can afford, cause there's nothing worse than making more power and the stock car parts can't handle it ;)..... I guess that's half the fun tho...:D

Loz

Thanks guys...

I'm waiting for a quote tomorrow. From what ur saying, I can count on b/w $600 and $900, depending on standard or heavy duty (and fitting)!?! Is that right???

If anyone else knows of a good shop in Bris North, speak up!!!

Thanks!!!

iijj

Try x-clutches they have been in Zoom magazine, they are in QLD and at underwood somewhere.

They have stock, heavy duty twin plates tripple plates, they are made here in Australia using stuff they don't tell anyone.

In Zoom they had a silvia or skyline doing around 400-500HP, and ask x-clutches about what to get and they said get our special coated stock plate and it'll handle it.

Anyway sus them out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...