Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just this week noticed that when my R33 GTS-T hits boost (only 10 psi) at around 3000rpm in 4th or 5th gear (under moderate to heavy throttle) that the revs initially rise quickly (without as much thrust!) and then dip slightly before continuing to boost OK...

Could this be the clutch slipping???

It feels a lot like it, but I've only ever blown clutches (admittedly in FWD cars) in lower gears and usually when revs are high!!!

Is it the torque that causes the clutch to slip??? It doesn't slip and dip in any lower gears!!!

Could it be a boost pressure issue??? I have a basic bleed valve installed. I can't think why this would cause this but I'm certainly no mechanic!!!

IDEAS??? I already did some searches and came up empty!!!

Ta!

iijj

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41766-clutch-in-4th-and-5th/
Share on other sites

I have just this week noticed that when my R33 GTS-T hits boost (only 10 psi) at around 3000rpm in 4th or 5th gear (under moderate to heavy throttle) that the revs initially rise quickly (without as much thrust!) and then dip slightly before continuing to boost OK...  

Could this be the clutch slipping???

It feels a lot like it, but I've only ever blown clutches (admittedly in FWD cars) in lower gears and usually when revs are high!!!

Is it the torque that causes the clutch to slip???  It doesn't slip and dip in any lower gears!!!

Could it be a boost pressure issue???  I have a basic bleed valve installed.  I can't think why this would cause this but I'm certainly no mechanic!!!

IDEAS???  I already did some searches and came up empty!!!

Ta!

iijj

I think u need a new clutch. Ur case is just like wat had happened to me before. Starts to slip only at high speed (4th n 5th gear).

Bummmmmmmer........

So, anyone know a decent place to price a clutch up here in Brissie???

I don't think I can afford a heavy duty clutch if they're $900 fitted!!!

How much do the standard clutches go for, including fitting, and ...

where should I get one???

I hardly ever drop the clutch in first, but I don't want it to blow again inside a couple of years either. Would I be better with a heavy duty item??? I'm only producing around 140KW atw...

Suggestions...

iijj

PS Hey, how long, if I nurse it somewhat, until it will give up altogether???

Iijj , quote for me was 350 for standard clutch and 550 for heavy duty. twin plates go up and up from there... i plan on making more than 200RWKW so a heavy duty is rated to the 300 rwkw range. If i wanted to make over 300 RWKW (read many $$$$$) I'd have gone for a twin or Triple plate item.

Personally get the best you can afford, cause there's nothing worse than making more power and the stock car parts can't handle it ;)..... I guess that's half the fun tho...:D

Loz

Thanks guys...

I'm waiting for a quote tomorrow. From what ur saying, I can count on b/w $600 and $900, depending on standard or heavy duty (and fitting)!?! Is that right???

If anyone else knows of a good shop in Bris North, speak up!!!

Thanks!!!

iijj

Try x-clutches they have been in Zoom magazine, they are in QLD and at underwood somewhere.

They have stock, heavy duty twin plates tripple plates, they are made here in Australia using stuff they don't tell anyone.

In Zoom they had a silvia or skyline doing around 400-500HP, and ask x-clutches about what to get and they said get our special coated stock plate and it'll handle it.

Anyway sus them out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...