Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Shopping for slotted rotors for my R34 GTR.

Was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a supplier that still has the DBA 4000 old wiper slot pattern if possible.

Maybe someone still has old stock etc remaining on the shelf?

Just a personal preference, however if necessary will settle for the new style design.

Thanks.

Old design -

dba4000series03.jpg

New design -

405550551024x387.jpg

When new models come out, like most things, the old stock is returned to the manufacturer or sold on 'special' to clear and rebates given.

You'll have a hard time finding them in most instances. What business wants to carry old stock when customers want new stuff? :)

The old design was prone to cracking when pushed. It makes no sense to try to get the flawed design now that its been superceeded with a better design.

^^^ this

Adam recalls how these were prone to cracking.

Any slots that go to the edge, and at right angles to the edge, are prone to cracking.

It's the same principle where...

* a glass cutter needs to go right to the edge for glass to crack - if it doesn't it's hard to snap

* a tablet that is scored across the middle to enable a 1/2 dose needs the scoring to go to the edge to facilitate cracking

So you wouldn't want to have your rotor slots anywhere near the edge; or worse still, perpendicular to the edge.

The "NEW OLD" model fixed this problem, the slots stop before the edge by around 5mm, on the front anyway, and I never heard of anyone having problems with the rears.

Skylines are far too front heavy for the rears to get the same level of heat/cracking going on.

Most people will replace the fronts twice before even touching the rears once in most cases.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...