Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the title says i got my injectors cleaned by a mechanic on the central coast and now whenever i go to start the car after putting the rail back in the car hydralicly locks up and wont crank.

the ideas myself and some friends have come up with are as follows:

> bad spark plugs

> bad fuel pressure regulator

> bad injector that is stuck open

> ecu having issues for no particular reason

> crank angle thingy is set too rich

i know how to check my spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator, the ecu and crank angle but the electrics of the injector have got me stumped.

ive removed and reinstalled my fuel rail twice and i cant figure out how a wire would be shorting making them stay open. anybody have any suggestions on how to fix this or any other ideas as to what can be causing it.

cheers.

take the spark plugs out, unplug the crank angle sensor (to stop the injectors firing) and turn the car over (may pay to put a rag over the spark plug valley to stop any fluid going everywhere). if fluid does come out, see whether it is fuel or coolant.

if it is coolant, then you have a blown head gasket. if it is fuel then i'd say you have a shagged O ring on one of the injectors. did you replace them before you put the injectors back in?

I'd guess at sticky injector holding open. Maybe the pintle got damaged during the process and is sticking open.

I agree with the above as to how to diagnose the cylinder. Work out which cylinder it is

(and if it is fuel), providing it is fuel, remove the injector and change it to a new cylinder, see if the problem moves with the injector. If yes, injector rooted, if no you obviously have another issue (electrical)

Good luck!

not sure if this will make me or the mechanic sound stupid but if i remember correctly the pintles are the little caps which go on the ends of the injectors? the mechanic who did the injector cleaning said that the pintles wernt needed so he didnt bother putting any on. would the lack of pintles be causing the injectors to flood the cylinders. and what tool should i use out of my basic as f*ck toolbox to pull injectors out of the rails?

Thats the pintle caps he would talking about. They protect the pintle from getting damaged and help prevent fowling up on the injector tip

The injector should just pull out of the rail once removed or if a different type will have a clip that slides around the injector to lock it in place. You can remove it with any pliers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Had another look at the car and I noticed the fuel pump isn't priming on ignition. I'd taken out the pump from the boot to siphon out the old fuel, so maybe I've knocked something loose or broken a wire putting things back together. Will go back with a multimeter and try to work out what's stuffed. Kinda hoping it's the pump itself thats gone so I can upgrade it
    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
×
×
  • Create New...